3d printing

[Tinwhistler]

I've ended up with a lot of coinage, so I needed to print a piggy bank.
This one seemed a good one, and I dolled it up a bit with gold rub-n-buff

spoilered for nuuudez

Spoiler: n00ds

 

[Tinwhistler]

Dulcimer player at the local Renaissance Festival asked me if I could replicate a dulcimer hammer she had. I don't know anything about dulcimers, so these could suck big time. But they look alright.

 

[PatrThom]

Even if you get the profile right, it's more about the balance/weight distribution, a bit like a tiny khopesh.
From observation--the finger holds near the neutral (balance) point with just a shade more weight towards the front. The head should be light enough to swing/move quickly via wrist motion, but have its weight loaded vertically (thin and tall) so that striking can be exact yet bring the full weight of the head to bear in a precise vertical profile. The back end should be beefy enough to allow the fingers holding it sufficient control to "soak up" any undesired rebound or sideways deviation, but still allow enough rebound to jump high enough off the string to head towards the next one(s).

--Patrick

 

[Tinwhistler]

I was talking about this same thing elsewhere and said something along the lines that "I'm sure dulcimer players geek out about their hammers the same way whistlers geek out about their whistles. thickness, weight, balance, striking area, etc etc etc. But since I don't have years of experience to inform my efforts, I'm just gonna use my eyes and calipers and if they don't like 'em, I warned them in advance that I didn't know what I was doing and PLA doesn't have the same weight as wood"

 

[PatrThom]

Hey all it makes me think about is whether it is possible to make hammers with ridiculous geometry, or make a dead blow version, or ones that "break" like a torque wrench when struck, or come with accelerometers and RGB, or silliness like that.

--Patrick

 

[Tinwhistler]

So, the dulcimer player said that the hammers were perfectly serviceable. They weren't her favorite, but the one she gave me to model them after weren't her favorite either, so I dunno what she was expecting

Also: I can wholly recommend the BambuLab P1S as a workhorse printer. 10 minutes ago, I lost power for less than a minute. I have print jobs going on 3 different printers.

Power came back on, printers rebooted, and I just hit "resume" on each of the printers and off they went, picking right up where they left off.

 

[figmentPez]

Fidget "knife"

 

[figmentPez]

CNC Kitchen covers highlights from RMRRF 2024 (Rocky Mountain RepRap Festival)

This first video includes a toolless quick change hotend, HueForge software for art prints, and 3D prints that were left outside for 7 years.

 

[Tinwhistler]

I've been fiddling with Hueforge for a little while. But it's not something that's really in my niche, so I've only used it to make friend/family gifts.

But I did make a big purchase today. Guess who has two thumbs and a laser now

 

[Tinwhistler]

I figured you were, I just didn't know if you'd endure the headache of the other orientations in order to see whether something like "60/45/30deg angle, holes up" made any difference to playability/sound/etc.

--Patrick

So, I had a crazy thought and did an experiment. As it turns out....printing these things completely upside down like this:

means I only have to pop off the supports, which pop off cleanly, and it's immediately playable without me having to tweak a god damned thing!

Also, I have learned that if I put masking tape over my whistles before I laser them, not only are the edges of the letters cleaner but also the tape then acts as a stencil, which allows me to then dab a little paint over the entire thing without having to be too precise...peel the tape off, and voila! the maker's mark looks so much better.

 

[GasBandit]

So, I had a crazy thought and did an experiment. As it turns out....printing these things completely upside down like this:
View attachment 48165

means I only have to pop off the supports, which pop off cleanly, and it's immediately playable without me having to tweak a god damned thing!

Also, I have learned that if I put masking tape over my whistles before I laser them, not only are the edges of the letters cleaner but also the tape then acts as a stencil, which allows me to then dab a little paint over the entire thing without having to be too precise...peel the tape off, and voila! the maker's mark looks so much better.

View attachment 48166

You forgot the L in front of the MW, you lecherous man whore.

 

[Tinwhistler]

You forgot the L in front of the MW, you lecherous man whore.

Shhh...that's our little secret

 

[Tinwhistler]

I've been avoiding TPU....everything I've read on Da Interwebs says it's a nightmare to work with. But finally, I bit the bullet, manually fed some TPU into one of my machines (because it won't go thru the AMS) and...it was fine

 

[Tinwhistler]

doin the social media thing...

 

[figmentPez]

CNC Kitchen covers highlights from RMRRF 2024 (Rocky Mountain RepRap Festival)

This first video includes a toolless quick change hotend, HueForge software for art prints, and 3D prints that were left outside for 7 years.

Follow up video: DIY Wire EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining), a filament color library, and a DIY plastic shredder.

 

[Tinwhistler]

Trying to take more dynamic and fun pics as I print new models

 

[Tinwhistler]

Now that I can print squishy TPU, I can print these She says they're very comfy

 

[Tinwhistler]

"Back from the Dead" reclaimed waste skulls.

3d printing creates waste, and can create a lot on multicolor prints. Instead of throwing that waste away, it has been repurposed into these trippy multi-colored skulls

 

[Azurephoenix]

Any Helldivers here? To knock some rust off my 3D skills I made up some customized coins for my friends and I taking inspiration from the Malevelon Creek silliness that went on early in the game. Designed them in Fusion 360 and resin printed them on my Anycubic Photon X. There's a weird sheen made up of straight lines but I'm pretty sure it will disappear with some paint and primer.

 

[Tinwhistler]

Snap back to practicality, ope, there goes sanity
Ope, there goes Tin, and he dope, he so bad...

I dunno why I channeled eminem there for a second.

So, I have a bunch of product in some Ikea Kallax shelves. But, I really don't have enough shelf space--which is why you see some stuff double-stacked in the following picture.

Kallax shelves are 315mm square. They make an insert that divides that in two. But 3 of those blue bins will fit stacked on top of each other, with a little space to spare.

Ikea doesn't make an insert that divides Kallax shelves into 3. Etsy has some..for like $50 per shelf. I have 15 shelves I wanna do that to...no thanks. That's the price of the whole Kallax unit by the time I'm done!

So, i'm gonna print these shelf pins

And use this handy jig that I mocked up in Fusion to position them precisely:

Drill some holes with a 4.8mm drill bit, and just make them myself at a cost of something like 70 cents per shelf--even less if I can tear apart those pre-existing inserts and repurpose the wood.