Advice: New TV and PS3

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J

Jiarn

With my W2s in I really want to get my kids a Blu-Ray player + gaming system + HD TV. I don't want to get crazy and blow it all, so I'm looking for simple but effective:

TV: Needs to be at least 1080p and 120hz. Otherwise I'm cool. Simply because I've seen these kinds of TVs in action before and my kids were totally enthralled.

PS3: I know there are so many versions out there, but in all honesty we don't need the full bells and whistles. Since my Xbox is "hacked" it can't really go online so I'm looking to get a PS3 that will be best for playing Blu-Ray and online gaming for them. I don't need anything with ridiculous amounts of space because for downloaded movies etc, I have our PC and Xbox.

I don't want to break my bank so simple is good. Where should I be looking and what specs/prices are my friends?
 
C

Chibibar

Unlike Xbox, you can get your standard PS3 (I got the low end.. not the backward compatible one since mine was 2nd gen) and I just change out the HDD. It works with any SATA drive without any special software or anything. The main software is on the system itself which is awesome :) I just pop the drive in and copy by save game over. In your case, you don't even need to do that, just change out the HDD of your choosing. I installed a 750GB on it :) it is sweeettttttt!!!!!
 
J

Jiarn

http://www.target.com/Philips-Class-1080p-120Hz-HDTV/dp/B003DPM55Whttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889104161

Just saw that, seems a bit too good to be true. 120hz, 1080p, LED LCD for less than $1000?

I'm pretty die hard on my Samsung products, my last TV and 3 monitors have been samsung. I wonder how the Phillips stacks up against

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889102377

Is it worth the 2-300 difference?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref...feature_four_browse-bin:1232886011&sort=price

Wow.... so many choices under $1000..... I'm going to be busy trying to figure this out....
 
J

Jiarn

Hm, seem to be debating between a few, but reviews are so sketchy on some of the websites I'm reading.
 
C

Chibibar

Unfortunately I am no good at comparing TVs (I haven't purchase that many. I bought like 2 in my lifetime and both were Sony)
 
Just a heads up if you're getting a new tv; I heard that DLP tvs can be retrofitted into 3D-capable sets with a software upgrade. Personally I'm not into the whole 3D thing, and a certain level of technical competence is required, but I figure having that option available should you so desire it is not a bad thing.
 
J

Jiarn

Zero interest in 3D but thanks for the heads up. I'm really considering the LED-LCDs now that I see they're easily in my price range.
 
I swear by Samsung products. This is my current TV : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...mp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002HDZNSC

(i got it got 2000$ last year, what can i say, my diplomacy check crit)

As far as Philips, as long as YOU know, you're getting an inferior product. Now it's up to you to gauge if it's worth the few hundred dollars difference. Personally, I'd wait a few weeks for superbowl week, the big screen deal-o-rama goes full throttle.

As far as what you pointed out (always check the worse reviews, the ones who don't vote dumbly and blindly for 1 or 5. If people vote a 3, it usually means there's an issue and they have something important to say) the Philips TV has no optical audio out, so scratch ever putting a home theater in. This can be an issue one day. The contrast ratio is quite low for today's standards and looking at the specs, it's like you're buying a 3 to 4 year old screen. The sensor for the remote is also very sensitive and you may need to point directly to the sensor. Overall, it's a good price but can you afford 200-300 dollars more? If so, get the Samsung.

The Samsung is pretty sweet though you'll only have one component output. (just like mine) So if your stuff isn't on HDMI such as the Wii or the XBox you may have an issue. I went around this problem and got a sweet component switchbox from Monoprice. You may also need to look into disabling the auto dimming issue on this particular model you posted.

IMO? Samsung.
 
J

Jiarn

Really appreciate the research and feedback Jay and I really do stand by all my Samsung products as well. I guess my next question becomes:

Do I go for the 6300series for $900 or is the 6500 really that much better for $1100? I can't see it being that huge a difference but maybe I'm not seeing something?

Something I see in the reviews is that the 6300 series is finding complaints of artifacts in fast moving sceens and bloom bleed in nighttime watching. I'm wondering if these are isolated incidents on bad TVs or it's a Series issue.
 
Difference is a slightly better contrast ratio in the 6500 (4m to 1 to 5m to 1, barely an issue) along with internet@tv and Samsung apps.

Cons about the 6300, laggy menus, that can fixed with firmware upgrades.

Cons about the 6500, internet apps not perfect, issues with sounds with internet apps, they both have random issues with bloom bleed.

We're going into minute issues though, both can be perfectly fine... here's a link, I always trust cnet

http://reviews.cnet.com/tvs/?filter=1000036_3808730_500963_20611456_&tag=mncol;dir3
 
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