I work on computers for a living - it'll always and forever be in 95-99% as technology progresses.I have a monster of an HTPC that I have constantly worked on, upgraded, tweaked etc for years. I have my entire CD and DVD collection on it and use it exclusively for tv watching, DVDs and Bluray, netflix streaming etc. A few things to consider when you are building one:
1) It will never be finished.
You might think it will be, but it will constantly be in a state of 99%. There will always be some new idea you have, some tweak you want, some upgrade for just a touch better performance.
2) If you spouse complains at first, let her. And then once she gets used to it, don't ever let it break or you might as well get used to the couch. Once you've lived with it, tweaked it the way you want, no one will be happy without it.
MythTV is mostly an afterthought right now - I'm a 99% Windows guy (even at work) so I knew it was out there and seems good, but with those limitations (esp. no Netflix right now) that kinda ends that thought right now.gonna stop numbering) Linux support for the Hauppage analog side on those dual tuner cards is a dead project and the original author has said flat out that he will not even revisit it. I'm not sure if yours falls under that category or not but if it does then Mythbuntu (or any linux based pvr software) is going to be a no go for you. I recommend GBpvr. It's free, works well on Win 7, good community and Sub (the programmer) is right on top of things. I actually like myth better than gbpvr, but if the tunners don't work then there's no point.
Also,to my knowledge and testing, netflix won't stream to Linux, no way no how. I have not yet found a way around that one.
Intel's price point is a bit higher than I would like, so I was thinking of staying with AMD and just get a silent/near silent fan to go on top.-edit- Can't believe I forgot this part:
If you want quiet you should be looking at an Intel processor. As much as I love AMD and will only run AMD on my work/gaming rigs. Intel has always run cooler and therefore have quieter fans. Most fans will have a decibel level printed on their packaging, I don't know how common it is for that information to be given when shopping online as I prefer to have things like that in my hand to compare them.
That's in the plan - this is just the hardware for the player - not the overall system.Consider getting yourself an all in one remote. I use the Logitech Harmony 700 and am very happy with it. Fairly easy set up and customization, one button turns everything on or off, no more fumbling around for 4 different remotes and such. Ease of use will make life easier for everyone (you especially since the major grief you might get from others is \\"How the hell do I work this thing?\\").
I hate that BS that they do with that. I do typically run VLC for playing my movies now, but depending on the "media center" software I run (thanks for the link to GBPVR, btw - will look into it), I may see what can happen there.The bluray drive you are looking at comes with a software player by Cyberlink PowerDVD that will play your movie, but out of the box it will not do dolby surround (or let you change the audio stream at all) so they will try and lock you into upgrading or buying their full version software (or obtaining by *ahem* other means.) Lets just say I was pissed off to no end when I purchased this with the expectation of being able to watch my blurays with the included software but they tried to lock me into buying more. This is one time I definitely pursued other options to get my functionality.
I realize that 3TB is excessive, but I was also thinking of setting it up in a RAID5 array, so I'd only have 2TB. Though I don't know if Home Premium would support RAID, so I may have to bump that up.Definitely check is that all your component pieces are HDCP compliant. I didn't look for you, but if they aren't then any HDMI, Hidef playback will be stunted or not work at all dependent upon manufacturer of the media you are trying to play.
Three TB is probably a little exessive (but that depends on how many DVDs and such you have and how you go about getting them onto your hard drive. If you go with full quality full disk images and have a large collection then you may very well need all that space. I have about 110 DVDs ripped to my drives (with about 30 more that I still own and need to rip) and with just the movie, no dvd extras it's taken about 500 gigs of space. Thats at full quality if the movie is under 4 gigs of space or whatever compression I need to keep it at the four gig mark for the image file. Hard to explain. I have not ripped any of my blurays to the HDD because an average bluray movie is around 30-40gigs worth of space.
My experience has been that quieter fans generally require more space and generally just will not fit in the media center cases. Larger heat sinks and fan area push more air without as much speed and have quieter operation, but require a lot more space. With the case I use (Mozart MediaLab) being a full two inches more shallow than my desktop rig most fans just won't fit in it. The height on the case you are looking at is about the same, possibly even more. (I didn't crack my media box case to measure clearance after the mainboard and such are in place, just outside dimensions)Intel's price point is a bit higher than I would like, so I was thinking of staying with AMD and just get a silent/near silent fan to go on top.
1) Probably won't use it for anything but a HTPC, but will record shows off of TV.Here's the list of important questions.
-Do you ever intend on using this system for anything other than HTPC (gaming, NAS box, router or something)?
-Do you want your sound via HDMI, or is analog/add-on sound going to be good enough for you?
-Do you want to store your videos in the HTPC, or somewhere else (NAS)*?
-How much ventilation/space will it have available to it? What size space is it going into?
-How long will it tend to be left running?
I might think of more questions later, but this'll be a good start.
--Patrick
*Yes, I know you said you eventually want to move everything to networked storage, but how much room do you figure you'll need right away?
Some comments back from me:Looking over your choices now...ok. I haven't played around with HTPC software, so I have no good opinions on anything specific and will just stick to hardware for now.
Heatsink - Good choice, nice and low-profile. Also quiet.
Graphics - Superfluous. The motherboard already has built-in graphics sufficient for your needs. Save the $95.
Case - Your choice based on looks and function.
Memory - 4096MB should be enough for anybody, right? But...see my next item.
MLB - Right now I'd actually prefer the MSI 890GXM-G65. The only reason I can see for going with anything else would be for more PCI slots (such as the BIOSTAR TA890GXE) or to reuse older components (any board using DDR2) such as if you have to have a floppy drive (the MSI does not). The MSI board uses DDR3, which runs cooler than DDR2. It is the most future-resistant Micro-ATX board I see right now. And yes, getting that SB850 (as well as USB3) really is worth it.
OS - I would upgrade to Win7 Pro instead of Home Premium. The kickers are better XP compatibility and the ability to log into your HTPC remotely using remote access. This means managing it from another computer on the network rather than dragging a keyboard and mouse over to it every time you want to do something with it.
ODD - Your choice, they're pretty much a commodity these days.
PSU - The aforementioned Silverstone Nightjar. Plenty of power with zero noise unless you want to add a screaming graphics card to the unit (which you shouldn't need what with the built-in graphics).
Storage OS - I'd replace that drive with something like the RiDATA 32GB SLC SSD for the reasons I give above. Yes, it's a bit spendier, yes it's smaller (capacity). But it can take the abuse and hold everything you need, even with looooong uptime. Actually, if you can't afford to put in any sort of SSD right now, just put in the drive of your choice to get you by until the price of SSDs falls, then put in something in the 32-64GB SLC range once they drop.
CPU - I would actually recommend the Phenom II X4 910e (not the ordinary 910, but the 910e). It's about $30 or so more, but it uses significantly less power (you'll earn back your $30 over the first year in power savings alone) and generates a lot less heat/uses less power (also handy for silent PSU and cramped quarters).
Recommendations only. Even if you don't end up with the components I suggest, at least consider the reasoning behind why each was chosen.
--Patrick
Sure, USB3 may be plenty fast for that type of stuff, but when it's not really doing anything that I want to right now, doesn't seem worth it to spend the money on it now, since I'm 100% sure that when the technology changes enough, I'll swap out the inner parts with newer stuff - then USB3 might be in the picture.(I had a more complete post when I first read this at work, but work ate it when I forgot to copy it before submitting. Doh!)
-HTPC software has built-in remote access capabilities? I did not know that. Cool.
-USB3 isn't really relevant right now, and I know that. But I'm sure that someone will invent something cool for it in the future, and when they do, you'd be ready. The MSI board still has USB2 ports for things like a receiver for remotes, BIOS updates, etc. I just wonder what the future will hold. USB3 is plenty fast enough to feed raw/uncompressed 1080p video, for instance. Or 12.1 surround or something.
-SSDs are the choice for an HTPC boot drive due to their fast random access times and pure durability. Yes, they are unfortunately very expensive right now, but that will change. And soon (though not soon enough, of course).
-Airflow through PSU cables isn't really that big of a deal if you run 'em once, tie 'em up, and tuck 'em out of the way. But being modular does make it even easier. Just not as quiet.
-I had trouble finding the 910e on Newegg, also. Of course, Newegg isn't the only vendor out there. The only reason I suggest the 910e is that it is the best AM3 CPU you can get (performance-wise) at the 65W level. If you need plenty of CPU power to do a lot of transcoding or something, I'd go for the 95W variant of the 6-core Phenom II 1055T (HDT55TWFK6DGR/HDT55TWFGRBOX) instead. 6 cores at a reasonably low power level should get plenty of work done.
--Patrick