[Rant] Me and my F*in Car

Blame @PatrThom. :D

Two months later, and my Aerio still needs a new windshield. Probably going to be another month or more if I decide to get new glasses this upcoming payday.

Then the insurance will be due, the cable, the phone, food, etc., etc. so it goes.
 
I do. It's... been in the shed since the fire in 2005. Never got around to replacing all my jerseys, shorts, the helmet, the shoes. And then there was the heart attack, etc., etc., so on and so forth. :oops:
I didn't know about the heart attack. Sorry, man. :(
 
I didn't know about the heart attack. Sorry, man. :(
No worries. It was in 2008, anyway. Everything else up there is an excuse, so why not that? :)

(And it's the helmet, the shoes, the maintenance on the overly idle bike, and the lack of funds for all of that that's what's really holding me back)
 
But man, think of how cool you can be on a motorbike. Isn't that worth horrible pain and being bankrupt? :p

I would probably be on a bike if I wasn't married. By that I mean, I'd have died on a bike by now if I wasn't married, because I would've been driving one.
 
I hate car trouble. I just got rid of my '94 Ranger that made it through undergrad and grad school. I fixed so many things on the truck. It was a rattling duct-taped mess by the time I sold it. We're down to one car that has >200k on it and it is also rattling in all the wrong places. Thankfully we have a bus system in town.

Also, @DarkAudit, I didn't know you had a heart attack either. :( Hope you're healthy now. It's prevalent in my family so I am nervous about getting 40+.
 
Reviving this thread in hopes of finding an answer to another irritating problem.

My car has an automatic transmission with overdrive. In normal spring and summer weather, there are no issues. When the temperature drops into the 40s or below, however, the transmission starts acting up. Stop and go city driving is fine, everything is as it should be. It's when I get up to highway speed that I have the problems. The transmission will not want to shift into overdrive. If it does, it's after I've been at highway speed for a while. And it does not want to stay there. So I will spend only a few minutes at a time in overdrive at highway speed in cold weather. I can also replicate this problem by using the overdrive on/off switch on the gear lever. But again, only in cold weather. Once the temperature hits the 50s or higher, overdrive works just as it should, all the time.

Thoughts?
 
When it comes to transmissions, preventative maintenance is key. I'd do as stienman said and go to a transmission shop. Letting it get worse and worse will lead to $$$$$. I speak from experience. Rebuilt transmission was an expensive lesson to learn.
 
Annoying whirring that increased with acceleration (even when out of gear) has now become a distressing squealing and groaning.

Belt AND water pump. $300 repair. Which just so happens to be about what I had left on this paycheck. Good thing I hadn't already paid the cable or one of the hospital bills. :(
 
Sorry you had troubles . Apparently you caught in time then? I have a ford focus and working on getting a second one in working condition (and I have a ton of pictures from the process!) ... For your car I was thinking it was the iac but then you said water pump. Just did one of those a few days ago but it sooooooo much easier with the engine out of the car!! :) ... Normally not an option I know. Glad it's working for you now?
 
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So *that* f*in car died at a Sheetz in Newville, PA in June. This f*in car is trying to nickel and dime me to death trying to trace a vibration problem.

This is my mom's 1998 Nissan Sentra. Until it was revived for my use, it had sat for three years, as my mom was, and still is, unable to drive after multiple joint replacement surgeries. Tires and battery were replaced and oil change done. That was the extent of repairs before it hit the road once more.

At highway speed, I get a vibration in the steering wheel and a thumping noise from the right front when I decelerate from that speed. Tires are new, wheels are freshly balanced (they were found to be out of balance this morning), and front brake rotors have just been replaced. Problem still remains. Garage noted wheel bearings sounded like they're ready to go now, too.

So what next? Bearings? Suspension?
 
I vote bearings. Especially if you hear a growl when you turn that gets louder the further you turn the wheel. Also, bearings suck.

--Patrick
 
After rereading, I'm not convinced of bearings, but have no good idea what would vibrate only under deceleration (NOT braking) on one side only.

--Patrick
 
After rereading, I'm not convinced of bearings, but have no good idea what would vibrate only under deceleration (NOT braking) on one side only.

--Patrick
It is during braking, but the symptom was present both before and after the brake work and wheel rebalancing was done.
 
Were the rotors replaced with the brake job, or just the pads?

Does it happen under deceleration without braking, or only when braking?

What's the mileage?
 
Were the rotors replaced with the brake job, or just the pads?

Does it happen under deceleration without braking, or only when braking?

What's the mileage?
Invoice says just the rotors. The WHUP WHUP WHUP happens under braking at highway speeds... like coming off an exit ramp. Stops when letting off the brakes. Steering wheel vibration at 55 and up.

Mileage is ~61000, but the car sat idle for about 3 years exposed to the elements.
 
I'd replace the brake pads and rotors again. If it's happening only under braking, then it's most likely the brakes. Other possibilities include ball joints and suspension.

If the vibration occurs regardless of the braking, then it's a separate issue and should be diagnosed separately - they may or may not be related, but talking about both at once is confusing. If it only happens when braking, then it's probably also related.[DOUBLEPOST=1442510275,1442510212][/DOUBLEPOST]Also you should make friends with someone near you who does their own brakes. New pads and rotor, particularly in a small car like that, should be under $150 - it's the labor that's expensive.
 
If you are even slightly mechanically inclined, changing pads and rotors are fairly straightforward.[DOUBLEPOST=1442512461,1442512331][/DOUBLEPOST]I've had a bent steering rod that had similar symptoms, but if didn't have the problem before the car sat idle for all that time then it's not likely the issue.
 
Did some searching on the Internets.
Shuddering and steering wheel shimmy under braking can be rotors, bent axle, rotors, rotors, worn hub, ball joints, CV joints, rotors, bearings, rotors, loose lug nuts, or rotors.
If we're going to template-match, then the majority of the time, it was rotors.

--Patrick
 
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