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Our family desktop computer died recently. While we could get it fixed, it was a crappy computer in the first place, and as a result I think it'd just die again pretty soon afterwards anyway. So, somewhat unwisely, I offered to put a new computer together, which would help ensure the quality of the computer, plus maybe keep costs down a bit.

Only afterwards did I remember the fact that I've never assembled a desktop computer before, and I only know the most rudimentary elements of computer assembly. I know a computer needs a case, a motherboard, RAM, a hard disk, a graphics card, a power supply, and maybe some other doohickies. But I don't know how to go about actually putting theory into practice.

The new computer will be used for gaming (by me) and general Internet browsing and email and stuff (by the rest of the family). I'll be the one paying for the new machine, so I'll have full control over the budget. And while I'm not quite able to say price is no issue, I am willing to pay a bit more for better parts, in the interests of future-proofing.

So whaddya say, Halforums? Want to help a computer newbie accomplish something he's never done before?

Sure! Ask away.

1) don't skimp on the power supply.
2) ...
3) profit.

What do you not need to buy? do you have a monitor, keyboard, mouse, and speakers you are happy with (even if for the time being). Also you can build a pretty solid box for a lot less than you might expect, and a rough estimate of your budget will really help with the building.

mr_thehun said:

If it's your first time putting together a computer, stick to the ATX form factor and a case with good space. A case that is both good quality and cheap, I recomend the antec 300.

If you really like the ITX form factor, the SG08 is a small case with enough space for an 11" video card. The thick aluminum faceplate is sexy.

If you want more than 4 gigs of ram you need 64bit windows.

Click to expand...

Now, see, this is what I'm talking about. I have no idea what ATX form factor or ITX form factor is.

Anyway, I'll be talking to my family about this over the next few days/weeks, and I'll update as needed, but it's good to know you guys have my back.

They're standards for motherboards. ATX is a common desktop mobo, great for when you want a lot of PCI-slots (for graphics cards, wi-fi cards, etc.) Mini and Micro ATX are slightly smaller versions they tend to have fewer slots (enough for a graphics card, and maybe one or two more). Mini-ITX is a crazy small size, great for home theater pc's or other small for factor devices. I agree with mr_thehun, stick with the ATX. The size makes everything less cramped, and it tends to offer more.

I agree with sticking with the ATX for a first build - it offers the most choices for what you want.

Once you get to picking CPU, Mobo, etc you'll want to do a power supply calculation otherwise things won't work right- here's an example from NewEgg.

If you're looking for quick booting speed and such, you may want to look into a SSD for the OS/Programs and store all of your data on a second HD.

Personally I'd suggest for gaming to go with at least 8 GB of memory (requiring 64-bit Windows) and a good graphics card. However I'm not sure if SLI/Crossfire is a good choice - never run that myself, so it may or may not, also depends on if the game supports it.

Generally speaking, game don't require double graphics cards, right? So if I pay a bit more for a better graphics card, then I should be able to run most or all games, without having to fiddle with SLI or Crossfire?

...and my axe!

--Patrick

If you're using an intel CPU, the heatsink/fan is supposed to make that cracking noise when you clip it down to the motherboard.

Ground yourself before touching anything.

Get an aircan to clean parts. Never use a vacuum of any kind, or a dust brush, on dusty computer parts, you'll generate static electricity which can ruin components.

Good luck getting it back off in one piece again, too. I swear those things are made to only be used once.

--Patrick

Newegg has a shellshocker deal today for an OCZ Agility 3 60GB SSD for $69 (in addition to a mail in rebate). That's ~$1.17 per GB, probably closer to $1.25 when you buy a bay adapter. Pretty good deal for a SSD.

I know you're not ready to buy things yet, but this would be a great addition to any computer that doesn't yet have a SSD.

I think the first relevant question before recommending actual hardware is "What is your price range?"

I don't want to hijack bhamv3's thread, especially since it's going to be a while yet before I can save up enough money to both move to Louisville and buy my wife a desktop gaming rig, but I do have (what I hope is) a quick question. When looking into a computer case, what is a good brand? I don't personally care if the tower looks cool, I just want the interior components to stay cool. I've heard good things about Rosewill, and Thermaltake has been in the cooling industry for years; are they good choices?

It's always going to be something you will decide (if you'll pardon the pun) on a case-by-case basis. There are companies which consistently make good cases, but everyone will have their duds. On top of that, if you pick The Perfect Case, you may discover that The Perfect Motherboard won't fit in it for some odd reason or another. I chose a surprisingly useful case for my latest MicroATX build, but I discovered the GPU I want is 11in long, and I only have 10.75in space. In my case*, I will be able to make it fit by sacrificing a chunk out of one of my HDD bays to make room, but I bought a case that already had bays to spare. You might not be so lucky. Unless you have some specific reason for wanting a particular case (noise-free, specific size requirement, compressor-based cooling), you will probably want to choose your motherboard, processor and GPU first, and worry about your case after you have finalized those three items.

--Patrick
*There I go again...

I just get the cheapest case that fits my stuff, then spend the money on the important pieces. The only reason I might splurge on a case is if it gave better airflow, requiring fewer active cooling measures. Others go for looks and bling, but it's just eye candy, and if it means the difference between 8GB of ram and 16, I'm getting the cheaper case and more memory.

If you add a CRX sticker it goes 34% faster.

True story, bro.

That's why I use K&N Filters in all my cases.

The last case i bought was selected specifically for it's ease of access. The case i have has swing panels on both sides so you can just pull down the back panel to get to the motherboard. It also has screwless attachments for the removable components, like the hard drive and dvd rom drive.

There is a special place in the underworld for case makers that leave razor sharp edges on the sheet metal inside the case.

I cant tell you how much easier changing components has been since getting that case.

It's actually not easy for me to state a price range, since I live in Taiwan and our components won't be priced the same as in the US. Also, Newegg doesn't ship overseas. *grumble* But what if I say, for example, around $1500 US dollars? That should get a pretty decent rig, right?

$1500 USD will get you a great rig, you're right in the best bang for the buck range. Any higher and you start loosing value fast, any lower and you'll have to start making decisions.

There may also be an issue of what brands and such are available here and what's available there. But, yeah for 1500 USD, you can get a great gaming setup.

Oh yeah. For $1500, you won't build a world-beating competition rig, but you should certainly be able to put together something that'll last you at least a few years.

--Patrick