Smallnetbuilder suggests that of the ones they've reviewed, your price/performance champion is going to be the TP-LINK Archer C7 V2 for US$70. The Archer C5 is a close second at US$75 (which is not too surprising, seeing as in reality it is just a detuned/rebadged Archer C7 V1 on the inside).Any suggestions?
It sounds like his main bottleneck is actually routing performance. If he disables routing on whatever new equipment he gets, he's going to be back to having his ISP box do all the router processing, which would put him right back where he is now, no matter how much improvement he gets with his signal/link speed.most SoHo routers that have wireless capabilities can be converted to WAPs just by turning off their DHCP server functions.
Make sure you let us know how it works for you.Just as a followup to my original question, I went with a used Netgear 802.11ac router from ebay, which I sniped for about 30 bucks. So I sort of split the difference.
A lot of ISPs strongarm their customers into using their combination modem/routers, which is what I was assuming was the case here. They combine the modem/router/wireless into one box so they can more easily remotely administrate the whole shebang. That's what I was interpreting Eriol's situation to be. That being the case, any router behind that wouldn't really be doing any routing. But if that's not the case here, then yeah, best just to get the old router out entirely.It sounds like his main bottleneck is actually routing performance. If he disables routing on whatever new equipment he gets, he's going to be back to having his ISP box do all the router processing, which would put him right back where he is now, no matter how much improvement he gets with his signal/link speed.
--Patrick
My ISP gave a modem/router/wifi. 10/100. Right away just put a gigabit switch on it for local wired traffic. Want to replace its wifi now. Maybe even an extra layer of NAT just so that the ISP has no clue whatsoever of what's happening inside of my network. All I want it for is to go to the net and handle nothing more. New device to do everything inside of my house. MAYBE keep it as a DHCP server (so no extra NAT layer) or maybe not (probably simpler not to).[DOUBLEPOST=1459180577,1459180396][/DOUBLEPOST]A lot of ISPs strongarm their customers into using their combination modem/routers, which is what I was assuming was the case here. They combine the modem/router/wireless into one box so they can more easily remotely administrate the whole shebang. That's what I was interpreting Eriol's situation to be. That being the case, any router behind that wouldn't really be doing any routing. But if that's not the case here, then yeah, best just to get the old router out entirely.
Nice suggestions. Will strongly consider. And I'll look at that website too.Smallnetbuilder suggests that of the ones they've reviewed, your price/performance champion is going to be the TP-LINK Archer C7 V2 for US$70. The Archer C5 is a close second at US$75 (which is not too surprising, seeing as in reality it is just a detuned/rebadged Archer C7 V1 on the inside).
There may be others better suited depending on your location and intended use (coverage pattern, printer/storage options), but if your primary criterion is the ability to throw files back and forth between other machines on your LAN, the numbers say these should do it for you.
--Patrick
That's what I thought was the case. In that situation, then, yeah, I'd say pick up an inexpensive (not D-Link) wifi/router, plug one of its "internal" ethernet jacks into your switch and leave the "uplink" port unconnected. If you already have something in your network on its default IP, you might want to change it, if only temporarily, and then browse to the new router, go into its configuration, setup the wifi encryption/speed/pwd/internal IP etc, then turn off its DHCP. It is then a wireless access point - whatever devices connect to it will get on your internal network, and whatever is assigning addresses (right now, your ISP's router) will assign it addresses like any other device. Naturally you can change any of this later.My ISP gave a modem/router/wifi. 10/100. Right away just put a gigabit switch on it for local wired traffic. Want to replace its wifi now. Maybe even an extra layer of NAT just so that the ISP has no clue whatsoever of what's happening inside of my network. All I want it for is to go to the net and handle nothing more. New device to do everything inside of my house. MAYBE keep it as a DHCP server (so no extra NAT layer) or maybe not (probably simpler not to).
That's one way of doing it definitely (and I've done related in the past. Remember to do that config disconnected from the rest of the network though, since if you have TWO DHCP servers on the same network, madness can result). The other way is to use the uplink and have that the ONLY thing connected to the ISPs router, and then the ISP can't read anything off of my network. Not because I worry about the ISP per-se, but more that the thing is ancient and probably riddled with security holes. Might be better to "quarantine" it as much as possible from the rest of my devices.That's what I thought was the case. In that situation, then, yeah, I'd say pick up an inexpensive (not D-Link) wifi/router, plug one of its "internal" ethernet jacks into your switch and leave the "uplink" port unconnected. If you already have something in your network on its default IP, you might want to change it, if only temporarily, and then browse to the new router, go into its configuration, setup the wifi encryption/speed/pwd/internal IP etc, then turn off its DHCP. It is then a wireless access point - whatever devices connect to it will get on your internal network, and whatever is assigning addresses (right now, your ISP's router) will assign it addresses like any other device. Naturally you can change any of this later.
My only caveat on that second one is that when I've tried it in the past, there were port-related oddities. Might have just been the particular router I was using at the time. Also, the more things that you put between your switch and your modem, the more things you have to check/troubleshoot when, at some point in the future, the internet "stops working."That's one way of doing it definitely (and I've done related in the past. Remember to do that config disconnected from the rest of the network though, since if you have TWO DHCP servers on the same network, madness can result). The other way is to use the uplink and have that the ONLY thing connected to the ISPs router, and then the ISP can't read anything off of my network. Not because I worry about the ISP per-se, but more that the thing is ancient and probably riddled with security holes. Might be better to "quarantine" it as much as possible from the rest of my devices.
Fair point to make no doubt, but as I said, isolating from ISP is probably worth it in the bargain. Either way, I have options.My only caveat on that second one is that when I've tried it in the past, there were port-related oddities. Might have just been the particular router I was using at the time. Also, the more things that you put between your switch and your modem, the more things you have to check/troubleshoot when, at some point in the future, the internet "stops working."
This is the situation I was assuming as well. Most ISP-provided routers will at a minimum allow some kind of DMZ or "default host" passthrough setting even if it insists on being in control of all the DHCP. If that's the case, you just set your router to be the DMZ/default host of your ISP's router and set your internal network to be on a different subnet than the one the ISP router wants you to be.A lot of ISPs strongarm their customers into using their combination modem/routers, which is what I was assuming was the case here.
[...]
My only caveat on that second one is that when I've tried it in the past, there were port-related oddities.
If they end up here rather than StackOverflow (or Superuser, or whatever on that network) for network advice, then God Go With Them.Yeah, most things we were saying I think were for the "studio audience" and in case some desperate googler ends up here trying to find help with the same issue.
Oh man, this. Especially with scientific code. Because most of the people doing that (a) work in an arena populated by scientists who kind of know how to code, but not really (b) create coding problems that "real" coders don't run into because of point a (c) ask in forums when no "real" coder dares tread.
You're stretching the definition. I've seen code by masters students in CS who have NO idea how to code. And that was when I was an undergrad in engineering. And I look at my undergrad code now and (most of the time) go "wtf was I THINKING???"Oh man, this. Especially with scientific code. Because most of the people doing that (a) work in an arena populated by scientists who kind of know how to code, but not really (b) create coding problems that "real" coders don't run into because of point a (c) ask in forums when no "real" coder dares tread.
If I read you correctly, I meant scientist as in not computer scientist. Like physicists.You're stretching the definition. I've seen code by masters students in CS who have NO idea how to code. And that was when I was an undergrad in engineering. And I look at my undergrad code now and (most of the time) go "wtf was I THINKING???"
So no, not "kind of" at all. They just don't know. Like, anything.
The trouble with trying to keep track of everyone on the forum is that there are so many. Without external aids (or constant updates to the Halforum wiki), it is almost impossible to know what people are "good" at (especially people with a total post count only 1/20th that of our most prolific posters), and therefore difficult to tailor a technical post wide enough for ALL audiences.I can appreciate doing the hand-holding for others here, but I'm not one who "needs" it. But a good reference nonetheless.
being an administrator for StackOverflow would really suck, because if it goes down, they can't google for the answer on StackOverflow. Which I thought was a really great point!
Initially I meant "given that CS should be better than everybody else, and since CS students are horrific, the regular scientists are probably even worse when they try, thus you have my sympathy having to deal with it."If I read you correctly, I meant scientist as in not computer scientist. Like physicists.
This is my experience. Most people who've worked with code (nearly) every day for years are OK at the least. Maybe not the most forward-thinking, but usually don't epically screw up. Not always of course (just look at www.thedailywtf.com for examples), but usually experience gets you to an OK level. But the really talented ones are just good regardless of formal training. They "get" it on a level most others don't.On the other hand, I've known some people who are really good coders who have never taken formal classes. In fact, there's a whole job title called "scientific programmer" for them. They usually have Ph.D.s or Masters in the subject matter, but for whatever reason have also become coding experts. Not to tell you anything you probably already know...
Well that's a relief.the really talented ones are just good regardless of formal training. They "get" it on a level most others don't.
You might want to learn some basic packaging, so that you can use apt (or yum, whatever) to install their programs on destination machines, and automatically get dependencies. Might be worth the time from the sounds of it.I find it phenomenally difficult to convince the other scientists here to use libraries. Especially in linux. There is some justification to their fears in that you have to rely on the end user to install the library, but for better or worse, that's a POSIX environment for you. I also find it tough to convince them that the Fortran code they wrote by directly transcribing their equations into fortran works (and indeed works the way Fortran was intended to work), but it sucks from an efficiency point of view. There's a reason, doctor, that your code needs 96 GB of RAM, and it's not because you're a god of numerical modeling. It's because your memory handling is extremely naive. Not to mention no one but you knows what "d" means here because you have one letter variable names with no comments, all in the global namespace.
Woo sorry. I could rant about this for a long time. I'm a research scientist, but I'm also a good programmer. I'll be damned if I let some crap out the door with either a bad implementation of the science from the pure devs or a bad implementation of the program from the scientists.
We do use packaging for what we can, but that requires the dependencies to be in the repositories. A lot of the repos don't have current enough versions of libs. I have custom scripts that will test for and install dependencies, but they're not foolproof. I also can't yum everything, because it's high performance stuff, and the user might have an architecture specific MPI libs or math libraries, which could be dozens of times faster than anything in the repos.You might want to learn some basic packaging, so that you can use apt (or yum, whatever) to install their programs on destination machines, and automatically get dependencies. Might be worth the time from the sounds of it.
As for the rest, I can only imagine working WITH them to do this kind of thing, as opposed to being handed the stuff so I can change as I wish (that one-letter variable thing is common). Did that years ago and that was bad enough. I can only imagine what you go through daily.
They probably encompass everything the function originally was supposed to do, but not all the additions that got crammed in over time.I have to deal with a metric fuckton of legacy code all the time, so the definition at the top rarely encompasses even a fraction of what it's supposed to do, and thus in-function comments are essential.
How I wish that were true. What I've found usually happens:They probably encompass everything the function originally was supposed to do, but not all the additions that got crammed in over time.
Well, now I know why you married a priest.you don't fix any of the existing warnings unless you're re-writing the line anyways. Because there's 10s of THOUSANDS of them.
I would actually endorse that approach for a beginner, though I think I'd also agree with your prof. It CAN go too far.Back when I was first learning to code, my comments occupied two to three times more lines than my code did. I basically wrote out detailed descriptions of what every line of code was supposed to do.
My professor once took a look at my code, and just shook his head and said, "I think that's a bit much."
Make sure you let us know how it works for you.
Thank you for following up.Well. I bought the Netgear R6250 and I'm really unhappy with it.
For anyone else who thought this looked interesting, they decided to go into a little more detail and actually show how they built it.Any reason you wouldn't want to go home-brew?