Build your own computer guide

any recommendations for a replacement?
For anyone else looking as part of a NEW build, my advice is the same as before. Don't bother getting anything older than GTX3xxx/RX6xxx and try to stick to the 7-level cards (3070/6700) with 12GB or higher VRAM. A possible exception could be 6-level "Ti" cards but only if you have to.

--Patrick
 
A little advice for anyone using a 13th gen Intel processor who might be experiencing unexpected shutdowns/restarts: You might want to manually adjust your processor's power states in the BIOS to give it a hard upper limit, because otherwise your motherboard might be telling it that it's okay to go ahead and pull over four THOUSAND watts.
--Patrick
 

GasBandit

Staff member
A little advice for anyone using a 13th gen Intel processor who might be experiencing unexpected shutdowns/restarts: You might want to manually adjust your processor's power states in the BIOS to give it a hard upper limit, because otherwise your motherboard might be telling it that it's okay to go ahead and pull over four THOUSAND watts.
--Patrick
4 kilowatts isn't a CAPITAL LETTERS level of ridiculousness, that's basically how much my car's induction cabin heater pulls.

Ok, maybe it's a little high for a PC power supply.
 
Assuming 85% PSU efficiency, you'd need a dedicated 50A circuit to power the thing (plus your GPU and such), and that's assuming you had no other devices plugged into the same circuit!
(most home circuits are either 15A or 20A)
...and it is an absolutely ENORMOUS amount to pull at only 3.3VDC, like...I can't even begin to describe what that would take. You would spot-weld any contacts permanently into the "on" position the moment you flipped the switch. Plus there's the EMP to worry about.

--Patrick
 
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For anyone else looking as part of a NEW build, my advice is the same as before. Don't bother getting anything older than GTX3xxx/RX6xxx and try to stick to the 7-level cards (3070/6700) with 12GB or higher VRAM. A possible exception could be 6-level "Ti" cards but only if you have to.

--Patrick
Question as I'm contemplating a new build. why do you recommend against the 9 level builds? specifically, I'm looking Nvidia 4090.
 
Question as I'm contemplating a new build. why do you recommend against the 9 level builds? specifically, I'm looking Nvidia 4090.
To be fair, before the 30-series, NVIDIA xx90-level cards didn't really exist.
But mostly my recommendation is based on price/performance ratio, because traditionally the 7-level cards are the lowest level of "serious" GPU. And also because right now the 4070 and 4070 Super offer THE best performance per US dollar (MSRP of each is $530 and $590, respectively).

1709427592560.png

(Image and scores sourced from Passmark)

The 4090 is the highest-performing card on the market today, but with an MSRP of $1700 (and "real" prices easily going as high as $2300), it is also the most expensive.

--Patrick
 
Ok, so with my hdd giving out I've pretty much decided I'll be building something new.
Open to suggestions.
First up: R5 7600X, i5 13600, i5 14600, or something else?
 
Yeah, I've seen about it and heard about it... Though I didn't realize it was that bad.
I've always been an Intel/nVidia boy though... Going AMD/AMD means I understand even less than normal about numbering and serialization. Ugh.
 
First up: R5 7600X, i5 13600, i5 14600, or something else?
...yeahhhh now is probably not the time to be going 13/14 gen, possibly 12gen, too.

As for SSDs, these days NVMe is where it's at, with 2TB being the sweet spot, although 4TB is coming up fast. I prefer TLC over QLC whenever possible. You can probably save money and go for a PCIe v4 model. PCIe v5 models are available, but they are HOT and lose a lot of their extra speed once they throttle back to stay cool.

--Patrick
 
Ok, so with my hdd giving out I've pretty much decided I'll be building something new.
Open to suggestions.
First up: R5 7600X, i5 13600, i5 14600, or something else?
This is what I recently built, and it's been a powerhouse of pure gaming pleasure at 1440p 240fps


Though, it looks like the gpu I used (AMD's biggest boi) is no longer available at any sellers, might be another shortage.
 
We're between GPU generations at the moment, plus there's the situations with China and A.I. complicating everything from NVIDIA. At least we don't have to worry about Bitcoin any more. AMD's 7900 XTX and XT cards aren't bad, they're just outclassed by NVIDIA's xx70-and-up cards, and we have no hard data on Intel's Battlemage yet to know how their second attempt is going to fare. For the time being, my GPU stance hasn't changed since what it was 19 months ago.

I tell you what, people gave me Hell for going with 11th gen Intel "Rocket Lake" in my current system (Xeon W-1370P), but all these current reports have me thinking I dodged quite a bullet.

--Patrick
 
I'm not sure I'm willing to try and install water cooling myself :oops:
And... Well, I dunno, I'll have to look at the 12600s a bit. Even if the last two generations are out, it still feels weird installing a three-generations-ago cpu in a system I want to be somewhat future proof
 
I'm not sure I'm willing to try and install water cooling myself :oops:
And... Well, I dunno, I'll have to look at the 12600s a bit. Even if the last two generations are out, it still feels weird installing a three-generations-ago cpu in a system I want to be somewhat future proof
It really depends on what you want the PC for. I built it for gaming, and for that it's a beast, as games lean much more on the power of the GPU rather than the CPU. By going with an older gen CPU I was able to save a lot of money on the cpu and motherboard and put that money into the GPU. If I were building a render machine obviously I'd configure it differently. And while Pat is correct that nvidia's cards currently outclass AMDs, at the time I built this AMD was significantly cheaper. So yes, Nvidia's top card might be 20% faster than AMD's, but it was also 50% more expensive, making the AMD (at least at the time I bought it) a no brainier. I'm able to run everything maxed out with full ray tracing already so I have no complaints.

As for future proofing, I personally think this concept is a trap. Every time I've spent extra money "future proofing" it was really just wasted, my last build was of a similar budget and lasted for over ten years, and honestly could have kept going for another few years but I wanted a new one (and sold the old one to a friend).

Finally, water coolers: the one listed in the build I showed is an AIO cooler, or "all in one". It's a completely closed device, there's nothing fiddly to install, you just screw it in. You don't ever add water to it or anything like that, the system is entirely sealed. It's not like a custom water loop which is probably what you are thinking of.
 
OK, so I've now put this together....Which is more expensive than I was going for, but that's pretty much the default right?

CPU AMD Ryzen 5 7600X, 4,7 GHz (5,3 GHz Turbo Boost)
Motherboard ASUS ROG STRIX B650-A Gaming WiFi socket AM5
CPU cooler be quiet! Dark Rock 4
Memory Corsair 32 GB DDR5-6000 Kit
GFX card ASUS TUF Gaming Radeon RX 7900 XT OC
SSD Lexar NM790 4 TB SSD
Case be quiet! Dark Base 701 midi tower
PSU Corsair RM850x (2021), 850 Watt

With a new Windows 11 license (since I have no clue how I'm supposed to get my W10 key to be moved over if that's even possible these days) landing at around €2200. Oy.

Now let's hear it from the experts :-p
 
OK, so I've now put this together....Which is more expensive than I was going for, but that's pretty much the default right?

CPU AMD Ryzen 5 7600X, 4,7 GHz (5,3 GHz Turbo Boost)
Motherboard ASUS ROG STRIX B650-A Gaming WiFi socket AM5
CPU cooler be quiet! Dark Rock 4
Memory Corsair 32 GB DDR5-6000 Kit
GFX card ASUS TUF Gaming Radeon RX 7900 XT OC
SSD Lexar NM790 4 TB SSD
Case be quiet! Dark Base 701 midi tower
PSU Corsair RM850x (2021), 850 Watt

With a new Windows 11 license (since I have no clue how I'm supposed to get my W10 key to be moved over if that's even possible these days) landing at around €2200. Oy.

Now let's hear it from the experts :-p
How much are you paying for that windows license?
 
Fair point. I added it because I was thinking about letting the store build it for me, but if I build it myself obviously I don't need it. Sadly I think the Win10 key I bought for this one was an OEM key so can't be transferred, but I'll have to check.

Not sticking to one place to have it pre-assembled does save me about €100 (and I'll probably have it faster, too).
 
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Fair point. I added it because I was thinking about letting the store build it for me, but if I build it myself obviously I don't need it. Sadly I think the Win10 key I bought for this one was an OEM key so can't be transferred, but I'll have to check.

Not sticking to one place to have it pre-assembled does save me about €100 (and I'll probably have it faster, too).
Also I forgot to ask, and this is important, what do you use your computer for? If it's mostly gaming, I'm going to have different recommendations than if you're using it to render large video files or compile large programs

Also, what monitor(s) are you using and at what resolutions.
 
Between assembly costs, not buying Win11 but transferring my license, and cheaper places to buy some parts, assembling myself will save me about €380 alltogether. Yeah, I can still do it myself.
 
Gaming, and...Well, the monitor will most likely get replaced. I mean, I am running an ancient old machine by now :-D For now, 2 x 24" 1920x1080 monitors. Yes, I'm well aware the above is complete overkill for playing anything on 1080. But new monitor will probably only come a bit later - that's not as urgent as "having a pc that can play games again".
 
I thought I'd go with a 850W PSU at first which I know is far more than I need, but, well, €10....then I noticed that literally the same PSU but 750W is actually €60 cheaper - and still produces more than I will ever use unless I stick a second GPU in there. So, guess it's 750W.

Also, it's completely ridiculous how the exact same part on amazon.de including delivery to Belgium is still €10-€15 cheaper than buying it on amazon.com.be. you'd think they'd have managed to equalize those by now, but guess not.
 
Biggest doubt I have....is the RX7900XT worth the €300 more compared to the RX7800XT? It's obviously stronger, but for 1080p and even 1440p there's just plain no point, and it's not like I'm currently gaming in 4K - and I definitely don't intend to go into VR. So....Probably not? But....but...higher numbers and pretty pictures >_<
 
Biggest doubt I have....is the RX7900XT worth the €300 more compared to the RX7800XT? It's obviously stronger, but for 1080p and even 1440p there's just plain no point, and it's not like I'm currently gaming in 4K - and I definitely don't intend to go into VR. So....Probably not? But....but...higher numbers and pretty pictures >_<
Big number is difficult to turn away from, I know its allure. I mean, I'm running a 7900 XTX which is way more than I probably need.

How important is the budget? If you'd rather have those 300 eddies then the 7800XT is going to be more than fine even at 2K native resolutions. If you ever choose to go 4K there's always FSR that can upscale your resolution, and is even an option if you want to go a bit lower and upscale to 2K, though I personally prefer to run at native resolution. If you plan on sticking with 1080p (And that's a completely valid choice, you can get some -very- nice 1080p monitors for a lot less than their 2K or 4K equivalents, and often with better features for the price) then you really don't need the extra power. The only reason you'd need more beef then is if you -really- like ray tracing, and while AMD doesn't do it as well as Nvidia (yet, the software is getting better all the time) then the 7900XT will be worth it for that extra power. But then not every game utilized ray tracing, and even going into a new gen I don't see a lot of games requiring it in the near to mid future. And some people just don't like how it looks, it honestly took me awhile to warm up to it.
 
Biggest doubt I have....is the RX7900XT worth the €300 more compared to the RX7800XT? It's obviously stronger, but for 1080p and even 1440p there's just plain no point, and it's not like I'm currently gaming in 4K - and I definitely don't intend to go into VR. So....Probably not? But....but...higher numbers and pretty pictures >_<
7900XT has 2x the theoretical performance of the 7800XT but is usually only about 33% faster in real-world workloads. But it also has 4GB more memory (20GB v. 16GB) if you're looking to get a larger monitor later.
Also a comment about PSUs...when buying one, total up the wattage requirements of all your components (including externals) and then shop for a power supply that is about 20% over that total. Power supplies are (usually) at their most efficient between 15-85% of their rated capacity, and also their total capacity degrades over time, so you'll want that little bit of extra reserve.
Would putting a 4GB DDR3-1333 next to 4GB DDR3 at 1600MHz be worth it ?
What normally happens when you do that is that the 1600 stick automatically gets downclocked to match the 1333 speed of the other one. Just make sure they're both the same type (buffered/unbuffered, same number of ranks, ECC or not, etc).

--Patrick
 

figmentPez

Staff member
Quick question:

Would putting a 4GB DDR3-1333 next to 4GB DDR3 at 1600MHz be worth it ?
More context would help.

Generally speaking, you're going to be a lot better off with 8GB of RAM than you are with 4GB in a computer being used for general computing, even if you have to lower the clock of both sticks. If going from one stick to two allows you to go dual-channel, then you might even see a performance increase, despite lowering the bus speed.
 
Well, the reason i asked is because i didn't feel like bothering getting down on the floor to open it up and see all the details of the existing RAM, and then searching for the info on the net.

Guess i'll just put it in and see if it works.

10x guys.
 
OK, currently in the assembly phase - everything's in the case, it boots, the BIOS shows the memory and SDD, whatever RGB I happen to have seems to light up (not that I care greatly).
No Windows or anything else on there yet, but I'm worndering and maybe this is just a general big OH MY GOD DONT DO IT or something: power cables.
My motherboard has the 24 pin connector, another 8 pin, and a 4 pin. OK, plugged those all in. However, that leaves me with just one cable to connect to the graphics card, which also wants 16 pins. The cable's a splitter with 8 on one end and 2x 6+2 on the other end, Is it OK to plug both of those into the GPU? Or is that a recipe for disaster, and should I find another 8-pin cable somewhere to plug alongside it so there's two 8-to-8 connections?

Also, since I bought a 4TB M.2 drive, Jebus Christ is there a lot of spare room i nthis case. No HDDs, no nothing. From the looks of it, it's just a motherboard with a graphics card on top. The rest is empty or hidden.
 
Additionally: I have the choice between just doing a fresh Win10 installation from a USB stick, thentrying to register my Win 10 key over as "sure it's the same PC but I changed some hardware", then upgrade to 11 (I mean, not that I particularly want to, but...), or trying to move my current boot drive (a 128GB SSD) over temporarily, hoping to convince it that it's the same PC, and then move the boot over (because obviously I'm not going to keep using that drive, my new one's much faster) by cloning/re-installing. Which would you think is better?
 
-Your graphics card should be on two separate "rails" if possible, meaning the two 8-pin sockets should ideally not share the same cable back to the PSU. If that's the only option you have, then that's what you'll have to do, otherwise it sounds like you would need a different PSU.
-The PC we built for my wife some years ago is the same way. It has an AHCI SSD on a carrier card, but since it is using on-board integrated GPU, there's practically nothing else in the case.
-Moving over your current boot drive is likely a recipe for a big headache. The drivers and config files are all set up for your other PC and there's every chance it might not even boot. Better to do a fresh install and then migrate or manually copy.

--Patrick
 
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