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3d printing

#1

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Friend of mine has had an Ender 3d Pro printer for over a year, but for one reason or another, never got help building it. So she brought it here.
I've been interested in these things for a while, but it's always been "meh, it's one more hobby that I don't wanna sink money into" but now that it's here, i'm having fun with it
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She bought pink PLA with slightly non-standard temp ranges, so it took a couple tries to dial it in since default temps were failing.
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#2

Dave

Dave

I would use it specifically to turn HeroForge characters into minis.


#3

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I would use it specifically to turn HeroForge characters into minis.
that's what she wants to do for sure


#4

PatrThom

PatrThom

3D printing is something that would solve SO many of my day-to-day issues, but would not be worth it because it would be endless one-off project after one-off project, each one requiring a different filament or different head or etc or…

—Patrick


#5

figmentPez

figmentPez

I just want a pop-out sword:




#6

Sara_2814

Sara_2814

3D printing is something that would solve SO many of my day-to-day issues, but would not be worth it because it would be endless one-off project after one-off project, each one requiring a different filament or different head or etc or…

—Patrick
We have a Prusa Mk 3 filament printer and my husband uses it for making custom/prototype parts and the like all the time (everything from shelf spacers to race car parts). We just have the assortment of nozzles that came with the printer (and use the .4mm for the majority of prints) and spools of PLA & PET (depending on the project). Unless you're getting into some really crazy materials or want to print in multiple colors, you only need a few basics. He uses the free version of Fusion 360 to create objects.

I print miniatures and the filament printer kinda sucks for that. If all you want to do is print miniatures, resin is the way to go. We have a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k resin printer and an Anycubic Wash & Cure. Resin requires more work on the printing side, since you're dealing with resin (which can be stinky and should be handled with gloves since it can cause skin irritation) and it requires rinsing (with alcohol) and UV curing, but it requires much less work on the finishing side and the results are absolutely worth it. Filament miniatures will require a lot of finishing work and there is a high risk of breakage of the tiny arms/legs/weapons when you're prying them out of the supports. Resin miniatures essentially come out ready to paint, though the longer you let them cure, the better. After doing the intense curing with the UV light they're still a little soft, just letting them sit for a few days in sunlight will finish hardening them.

Star Wars Legion-scale miniatures (about 32 mm, 1:47 scale), filament & resin. I don't have any pics of the same model in each material, but these models were created by the same person so are very similar in design and detail.

filament.jpg

When Padmé came off the printer, she was completely encased by support material. I used clippers and dental picks to remove the supports. You can see a lot of filament bits and strings still on her that would need to be sanded or picked off. Her face is kind of blank and the gun is a mess because filament printers have trouble with fine details at this scale (0.25mm nozzle for this one).

resin.jpg

Resin only needs a few supports (they look like a few bits of scaffolding) that I just snipped off. Echo has sharper fine detail, which is what makes resin ideal for miniatures. He just needs a little touch-up sanding. (His prosthetic arm is missing because it was printed as a separate piece).

I printed a 6" Captain Rex figure in filament and it turned out fine (except I snapped off his viewfinder while removing the supports *cry*).

Before
Rex-1.jpg


After (about 5 hours to clean him up)
Rex-3.jpg


#7

PatrThom

PatrThom

Oh, I’ve done 3D printing as part of my job before, but all that did was impress upon me how expensive it would be to have my own setup. Between initial cost and consumables, it would be more than I could keep up with right now.

—Patrick


#8

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

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I'm just printing at "medium quality" and not fiddling with things to make them smoother or better. I'm just getting a feel for the machine and printing random stuff.

This was a life-size skull model that I scaled down to about an inch across.


#9

Sara_2814

Sara_2814

If you haven't found it already, MatterHackers is a great source for filament (and pretty much anything else 3D printer related). We mostly use their MH brand PLA & PET and have had good experiences printing with it.


#10

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

If you haven't found it already, MatterHackers is a great source for filament (and pretty much anything else 3D printer related). We mostly use their MH brand PLA & PET and have had good experiences printing with it.
I ran across them in my googling, but it's good to know they're a decent source :)


#11

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I've been using a coat rack as a cap holder, but as I've accumulated more caps, it's outlived its usefulness. There were a ton of options on thingiverse for wall-mounted cap holders, but most of them were for baseball caps. This one, however, seems to do nicely

cap holder.png


#12

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

four part print, assembled. This is the first print I've done that required supports, and I'm pretty happy with the end result. (Incidentally, I have some filament other than pink arriving very soon lol)
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#13

Dave

Dave

So I was sitting here thinking tonight and I had an idea. I googled it to see if it was possible and it is. Right now the technology is pretty bad, but it's going to get better and better as people work on this.

3D printed albums.



#14

Sara_2814

Sara_2814

So I was sitting here thinking tonight and I had an idea. I googled it to see if it was possible and it is. Right now the technology is pretty bad, but it's going to get better and better as people work on this.

3D printed albums.

That sounded much better than expected. It reminded me of when I tried to play an old shellac 78 on my 1980s record player.


#15

PatrThom

PatrThom

I know people have been trying to do this for a while, but the printing technology hasn't advanced enough to print at actual size.
But what it really calls into question is how faithful does a copy have to be before a human can't tell the difference? How long until a 3D-printed record can pass a turntable test?

--Patrick


#16

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I wonder if an industrial SLS would sound significantly better.
I mean, it's totally impractical from a manufacturing standpoint...stamping vinyl would still be the faster and cheaper technology. But industrial SLS printers can have a layer thickness measured in microns...(Formlabs Fuse 1 prints at 110 microns, .004 inches, for instance).

Nevermind...he's using an Objet with a print thickness of 40ish microns. lol


#17

Dave

Dave

Right but just think. Soon maybe we can take MP3 files and press them ourselves into "vinyl" that will add the pop & hiss. Sound wouldn't be as good but for record player peeps it would be interesting.


#18

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

So, my own 3d printer arrived today (recall, the one I've been playing with has been my friend's).
Bambu P1S. Shown here next to the Ender 3 pro.
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This thing auto feeds, will allow you print multiple filaments/colors in a single print, and is *fast*. It came 99% assembled. That little green tugboat in the bottom right of the pic is "Benchy"...a benchmarking print to troubleshoot print problems.

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I printed Benchy in 19 minutes on the P1S..by comparison the Ender 3 Pro prints it in around 2 hours.


#19

figmentPez

figmentPez

That's a fine looking Benchy. No stringing, only a little bit of ringing.

Will you move on to more advanced tests like the torture toaster?


#20

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

That's a fine looking Benchy. No stringing, only a little bit of ringing.

Will you move on to more advanced tests like the torture toaster?
Maybe some day...but at the moment, as long as I'm getting decent prints, I'm not gonna nerd out about it.

Decent prints like this 2-color bed scraper. Bambu sent a razor blade, 2 screws and stick-on magnets and a 3d file to print your own bed scraper and holder.

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#21

Sara_2814

Sara_2814

If you want to print something cool to show off 3D printing, do a planetary gearset: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451 is one of many on Thingiverse.

It's print-in-place (no assembly required) and it blows people's minds. :D


#22

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

If you want to print something cool to show off 3D printing, do a planetary gearset: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451 is one of many on Thingiverse.

It's print-in-place (no assembly required) and it blows people's minds. :D
That looks like just the kind of impractical wizardry that will blow my friends' minds when they ask me "but why do you need a 3d printer?" when all the practical things I'm already lining up won't impress. lol

Edit: and with Bambu Studio and the AMS system I have, I can print the gears in different colors :D


#23

PatrThom

PatrThom

impractical wizardry that will blow my friends' minds
Also print yourself a Gömböc to put in that pile.

--Patrick


#24

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

So far, in every print, the Bambu prints about 6 times as fast as the Ender.
Same pumpkin and witch hat--hat in sparkly PLA, and the pumpkin in random spool of orange they fortuitously sent me with the printer. (they send a random partial spool..they sent me partial spools of orange and green. Maybe because it's spooky season)

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#25

MindDetective

MindDetective

Hey 3D Printer enthusiasts, I have been eyeing the Swingrail trainer as I am coaching 9 YOs in a competitive baseball team but it seems so simple that 30 bucks is hard to swallow. Is this a thing that could be easily assembled with, in part, 3D printing? I don't have a printer but I have a buddy.

Picture for reference and also to grab your attention:

1697656416451.png


#26

PatrThom

PatrThom

Everything can be "easily assembled" with a 3D printer.
The only real issues are going to be ones related to precision and to material properties, and that shape looks like one fated to immediately snap like a wishbone if printed with standard PLA. I suppose if you want to fab up a few dozen and have "Ah! It broke!" be the indicator of a poor swing, then ... sure? Otherwise you'd want something more durable, and then you're looking at either using the printer to make a sort of lost-wax model for casting, or else having them SLM/DMLS'd, which would be pricey.

--Patrick


#27

Sara_2814

Sara_2814

So far, in every print, the Bambu prints about 6 times as fast as the Ender.
Same pumpkin and witch hat--hat in sparkly PLA, and the pumpkin in random spool of orange they fortuitously sent me with the printer. (they send a random partial spool..they sent me partial spools of orange and green. Maybe because it's spooky season)

View attachment 46314
I love the sparkly black.

We got the multi-material upgrade for the Prusa a couple weeks ago, but haven't had time to install it yet. Maybe that needs to be moved up the priority list.


#28

Sara_2814

Sara_2814

Hey 3D Printer enthusiasts, I have been eyeing the Swingrail trainer as I am coaching 9 YOs in a competitive baseball team but it seems so simple that 30 bucks is hard to swallow. Is this a thing that could be easily assembled with, in part, 3D printing? I don't have a printer but I have a buddy.

Picture for reference and also to grab your attention:

View attachment 46315
That thing looks dangerous even in the molded plastic version, LOL! It's attached to elastic, yes? Most objects, I'd say "Yeah, go for it", but since it's under stress from the elastic and kids are the intended users, I say spend the $30 for the molded plastic that is less likely to snap and put their eye out.

From a design perspective, it's kind of complicated. It has the curved part that has to be fairly precise to fit snug to a bat, and then that thin T-intersection "wishbone" bit that's under stress. Besides the material issues @PatrThom mentioned, layer adhesion is a weak point in 3D printing and that intersection is a big weak point. It could potentially be redesigned to be stronger at the intersection when 3D printed, but that's going to take some work in CAD. This would only be worth it if you weren't happy with the design and wanted to customize it and cost wasn't the issue.


#29

MindDetective

MindDetective

Thanks! That answers my question.


#30

Sara_2814

Sara_2814

Another cool model to amaze your friends: a print-in-place articulated dragon. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/articulated-dragon-mcgybeer



#31

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Another cool model to amaze your friends: a print-in-place articulated dragon. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/articulated-dragon-mcgybeer

I already have that one, an articulated snake, and an articulated axolotl in my 'to do' list :D
I'm waiting until I have cooler PLA to print them with.

Right now, I'm playing with Bambu Studio's ability to take a monochrome shape file and 'paint' colors on it to print multi-colored prints. I'd printed a set of coasters in pink (the only PLA my friend had with her printer), and I'm currently trying to print in blue/grey and green.
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As of this posting, it *just* started the green layer.
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#32

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

final result
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#33

PatrThom

PatrThom

Ooo, like inlay.

—Patrick


#34

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

and this new printer is so much faster....that coaster single was a 3.5 hour job on the old printer. After I saw success with the coaster, I printed 5 more and the holder last night..
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#35

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

It's crazy how fast I went from "where can I buy this thing I need?" to "I wonder if I can print this thing I need."

Stackable filament storage made with 3d printed shelf walls and cheap EMT conduit from Lowes. (The last bit of the righthand wall is still on the printer for a few minutes yet)

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#36

PatrThom

PatrThom

It's crazy how fast I went from "where can I buy this thing I need?" to "I wonder if I can print this thing I need."
Let us know when you print (and hand-finish!) your first tinwhistle.

—Patrick


#37

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Let us know when you print (and hand-finish!) your first tinwhistle.

—Patrick
I have 3d files for them already. I just am afraid FDM will lack the print dpi required for a good tinwhistle. Tiny tiny tiny variations can make a big difference in sound and tuning. Back when I was running that particular experiment, I was sending the files off to be printed SLS


#38

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

saw a few cool files on thingiverse labeled "lithophane"....so I learned how to make them myself :)
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With light behind it
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If I get cyan, magenta and yellow filaments, I can do full-color prints of these.


#39

figmentPez

figmentPez

If I get cyan, magenta and yellow filaments, I can do full-color prints of these.
For anyone who is curious about how those look, and what the process is like:


#40

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Well, i think I've got struts figured out :)
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#41

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

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Fully articulated, no assembly, print in place silver dragon


#42

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I'm not gonna bore you guys with all the little things I print here and there. But I thought you might like this one. I got some rainbow Silk PLA in, and printed a fully articulated rose dragon overnight.

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#43

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler



2 5x9 chainmail squares attached together. It would take 36 squares to recreate the 22.5 lb steel hauberk I currently own.


#44

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I just want a pop-out sword:


I am looking at various options for these now :)


#45

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler



#46

figmentPez

figmentPez

Not consumer 3D printing, but still really cool. Medical 3D printed casts:


#47

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

This one failed a couple of times before I got all the settings dialed in. Dune Striker..fully articulated rock/dragon/scorpion thing.

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#48

Sara_2814

Sara_2814

This one failed a couple of times before I got all the settings dialed in. Dune Striker..fully articulated rock/dragon/scorpion thing.

View attachment 46431
I love the filament. We haven't tried gradient yet.


#49

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I love the filament. We haven't tried gradient yet.
I dove right in with gradiant silk PLA...just started playing with PET-G day before yesterday. I like the feel of the finished items in pet-g...they feel less brittle, and the material properties (chemical resistance, strength etc) are amazing, but it doesn't make nearly as clean-looking finish.

I've been using TTYT3D for the gradient silk, because they had color combos I wanted. It has a few bad reviews on amazon, but I find that drying mine for 4-6 hours in my big Cosori dehydrater at 110F made it print just fine.


#50

PatrThom

PatrThom



--Patrick


#51

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Twisty pentagram vase

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#52

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

made a collapsing light saber similar to the katana. But with a pink blade. :D
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#53

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

That's no moon...but it is a lamp printed from a Nasa-provided 3d render of the moon

1699244065607.png


#54

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

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#55

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler


3d printed low g whistle


#56

PatrThom

PatrThom

THERE it is.

—Patrick


#57

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

THERE it is.

—Patrick
I'd feel better about it if it was my own design. But it's not. And I also don't have much use for a low G whistle.
So...I've been working on designing my own D whistle. I have the body pretty much nailed down and am now iterating on the head design. The following is my printed whistle body stuck on an Abell brand whistle head. I'm super happy with the results so far.



#58

PatrThom

PatrThom

Sounds a lot more airy than I think you'd really want, but I guess you can't beat the price!
(assuming you already had a head lying around)

--Patrick


#59

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Sounds a lot more airy than I think you'd really want, but I guess you can't beat the price!
(assuming you already had a head lying around)

--Patrick
Airiness is an artifact of the microphone I'm using to record. It'd also be caused by the mouthpiece and not the whistle body--it's not evident at all in person except as a little complexity in the tone (which is a desirable trait). This is the whistle head I play in sessions all the time. :)

speaking of whistle heads...


#60

PatrThom

PatrThom

Next is to experiment with orientation.
Which direction of "grain" sounds the best?

--Patrick


#61

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

1699842434905.png




Next is to experiment with orientation.
Which direction of "grain" sounds the best?

--Patrick
I think I'm printing the only way possible on this printer without having to clean out a bunch of support material. Basically printing them standing up. If I print them on their side, the whole tube is a giant overhang, and rather than a little tree of material on the outside I can grow up to support the mouthpiece, the entire inside has to be supported.

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#62

PatrThom

PatrThom

I think I'm printing the only way possible on this printer without having to clean out a bunch of support material.
I figured you were, I just didn't know if you'd endure the headache of the other orientations in order to see whether something like "60/45/30deg angle, holes up" made any difference to playability/sound/etc.

--Patrick


#63

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I think i can get away with up to a 45 degree angle on this printer without excessive supports. It's worth experimenting.


#64

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Been a busy little beaver
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#65

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Had this idea yesterday, and designing whistles gave me enough Fusion 360 to make it a reality
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#66

PatrThom

PatrThom

Does it say, "I'm already disturbed enough" on the back?

--Patrick


#67

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

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Wee little baby crystal dragon


#68

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

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Baby mistletoe dragon for the yuletide season


#69

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

A change in filament can make a world of difference
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#70

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Been making a lot more little babies of various kinds. I can hardly keep up. I sold 11 last night, and I'm supposed to vend these things at an event tomorrow.

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About two weeks since I started offering stuff for sale, and I've earned half-way to a 2nd printer in net proceeds.


#71

PatrThom

PatrThom

Those who can, do.
Those who can't...will happily pay $7 for someone else to do it.

--Patrick


#72

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Those who can, do.
Those who can't...will happily pay $7 for someone else to do it.

--Patrick
Hah..those are $10..or $15+ if you get them on Etsy and the like.


#73

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

2nd printer arrives today (Saturday's vending was very successful).

New model: Little fidget wolves, printed in dual-color filament that shifts from black to white depending on which angle you look at them.

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20231213_172538.jpg


#74

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I may have a problem....lol


#75

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20231209_100925.jpg 20231212_114542.jpg 20231213_011905.jpg
Winter dragon, clover dragon, coral dragon. Saturday is my last vending opportunity before Xmas. Then i expect sales will dry up considerably


#76

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

3d printing..not just for silly fidget dragons.
Friend of mine is moving from Houston, and her bed in storage had a couple of broken frame slats. She was gonna go to home depot and buy and cut wood, and I was like "It's a non moving part that sits on the floor, right? You just need it to not, you know, fall apart?
Measured with calipers and whipped up a support/patch in Fusion 360. Printed in PETG for a little more strength, and threw in some wood glue for extra hold.

The printed patch covers 3 out of 4 sides, and is fairly dimensionally stable. If it was weight-bearing, I would have said this wasn't a workable fix, but it rests on the floor, so I think it's gonna work out.

1702862303446.png


#77

PatrThom

PatrThom

THIS is the kind of stuff I want to get a printer for. Not the trinkets, but for the bespoke "Nobody makes this part any more" stuff.

--Patrick


#78

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

THIS is the kind of stuff I want to get a printer for. Not the trinkets, but for the bespoke "Nobody makes this part any more" stuff.

--Patrick
Yeah, she also has a missing plastic foot to a table, and I'm gonna re-create that too. My aunt sells vintage collectible toys, and they're always having to whittle replacement parts out of wood (because that's what her husband does) but would love to get them 3d printed.

I mostly got my printer for practical uses, but decided to vend stuff to help it pay for itself (well, pay for both of them, now that I have 2)...but now that the Christmas rush is over, I can use one to restock inventory and the other to do other stuff with.


#79

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Foot I'm copying.
1702916533561.png


recreation in Fusion 360. We'll find out in a couple of hours if it does the job
1702916564819.png


#80

PatrThom

PatrThom

Forgot to mention that you could have also added a piece of flat bedsheet to the glue layer between the wood and the patch, which would've acted like fiberglass and given it more long-term rigidity.

--Patrick


#81

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Forgot to mention that you could have also added a piece of flat bedsheet to the glue layer between the wood and the patch, which would've acted like fiberglass and given it more long-term rigidity.

--Patrick
good to know! I have a 2nd slat to fix if this first one works out, and I'll add that idea to the fix


#82

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I forgot to post the update....fit like a glove!
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Also: I would totally pritnt this if it didn't look like $50 worth of filament


#83

PatrThom

PatrThom

good to know! I have a 2nd slat to fix if this first one works out, and I'll add that idea to the fix
T-shirts and the like are made and meant to stretch, but flat sheets usually aren't woven that way, so they make a halfway decent reinforcing matrix. You can also just pick up a chunk of appropriate fabric from the scrap table at a craft store to have handy if you don't want to carve up a sheet. :)

--Patrick


#84

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

T-shirts and the like are made and meant to stretch, but flat sheets usually aren't woven that way, so they make a halfway decent reinforcing matrix. You can also just pick up a chunk of appropriate fabric from the scrap table at a craft store to have handy if you don't want to carve up a sheet. :)

--Patrick
I have a craft room. There's plenty of scrap fabric in there lol


#85

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Practical print--vape stabilizer, so I quit knocking it over
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Fun print: Stingray and display stand
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#86

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Local gaming store that is going to be selling my prints has asked if I can do more gaming-related 3d prints. So I designed this last night and printed it this morning

20231223_124337.jpg


#87

Far

Far

Local gaming store that is going to be selling my prints has asked if I can do more gaming-related 3d prints. So I designed this last night and printed it this morning

View attachment 46904
Look into dice towers, those will probably sell like hot cakes!


#88

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Look into dice towers, those will probably sell like hot cakes!
you would think. But at least in this area, they do not. At the comic-con here, there was a guy with a million 3d printed dice towers of various cool designs, but they just don't sell. And the gaming store here said they don't want any because the various ones they already have aren't selling. And my intuition says that gamers will spend big money on dice, but they like to roll them in their hands and give them the juju--the dice tower takes that human superstitious element out of it. They seemingly enforce randomness--and gamers, in the hearts of hearts, don't want randomness in their dice. They want their special "I roll 20's on this" die and their "this is my die for low rolls" lol


#89

evilmike

evilmike

you would think. But at least in this area, they do not. At the comic-con here, there was a guy with a million 3d printed dice towers of various cool designs, but they just don't sell. And the gaming store here said they don't want any because the various ones they already have aren't selling. And my intuition says that gamers will spend big money on dice, but they like to roll them in their hands and give them the juju--the dice tower takes that human superstitious element out of it. They seemingly enforce randomness--and gamers, in the hearts of hearts, don't want randomness in their dice. They want their special "I roll 20's on this" die and their "this is my die for low rolls" lol
Will you be printing giant, novelty dice then?


#90

PatrThom

PatrThom

Print a set of 3d6 but print them instead with only 1's or 6's on each face. Tell everyone they're designed special for people who like to min/max their character stats.

--Patrick


#91

Far

Far

you would think. But at least in this area, they do not. At the comic-con here, there was a guy with a million 3d printed dice towers of various cool designs, but they just don't sell. And the gaming store here said they don't want any because the various ones they already have aren't selling. And my intuition says that gamers will spend big money on dice, but they like to roll them in their hands and give them the juju--the dice tower takes that human superstitious element out of it. They seemingly enforce randomness--and gamers, in the hearts of hearts, don't want randomness in their dice. They want their special "I roll 20's on this" die and their "this is my die for low rolls" lol
Fair enough I figured since they are usually super expensive that the 3D printed ones could undercut the prices of the retail ones but I totally get that.


#92

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Fair enough I figured since they are usually super expensive that the 3D printed ones could undercut the prices of the retail ones but I totally get that.
Yeah, my initial thought was dice towers too..there's lots of good designs out there. But they just don't sell :(


#93

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Will you be printing giant, novelty dice then?
Funny you should ask....I just got a commission to make this thing.

1703411467251.jpeg


#94

Shakey

Shakey

What about initiative trackers? Might be a little extra work adding dry erase to it, but they’re pretty useful. Might not be a high demand item though.


#95

PatrThom

PatrThom

Might be a little extra work adding dry erase to it
This could be done easily as an inlaid panel.

--Patrick


#96

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

What about initiative trackers? Might be a little extra work adding dry erase to it, but they’re pretty useful. Might not be a high demand item though.
The game store owner thinks "ability tokens" might be popular--think 'second wind', barbarian rage, etc. Something the character can 'spend' during the course of an adventure to track these limited-use abilities.


#97

PatrThom

PatrThom

Is it worth it to have them be two-sided?
Like, for Barbarian rage, it could be face on one side, and then all Clash of Clans on the other side. Keep it face-up, flip it over to Clash side to "activate" it, then turn it in when spent.

--Patrick


#98

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Is it worth it to have them be two-sided?
Like, for Barbarian rage, it could be face on one side, and then all Clash of Clans on the other side. Keep it face-up, flip it over to Clash side to "activate" it, then turn it in when spent.

--Patrick
I don't really know what Clash of Clans is, but I think I get the reference. But yeah, my thought was on some coins to put two sides, if it's appropriate to the ability. I am still mulling over the details, but I think I'm going to try to make "character class packs"...with enough tokens to cover all the abilities for a specific character class all way through level 20.

Since there are subclasses, with varying abilities, that gives me an opportunity to really make a bunch of different designs.


#99

PatrThom

PatrThom



#100

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

got a bit of a breather from making vending goods and can get back to my true love :)


#101

PatrThom

PatrThom

Do you have to do any hand-finishing of the blade? Or is your printer accurate enough to not need any smoothing?

--Patrick


#102

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Do you have to do any hand-finishing of the blade? Or is your printer accurate enough to not need any smoothing?

--Patrick
The first batch of "for sale" whistles I made, I had to do a lot of hand-finishing on the blade. But I've made some tweaks to my process....that whistle there has no work on the blade whatsoever.


#103

GasBandit

GasBandit



#104

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Custom order for someone. Turned out pretty nice!

20231228_161347.jpg


#105

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

this little guy can stand up on its tail!

1703922516196.jpeg


#106

evilmike

evilmike

Custom order for someone. Turned out pretty nice!

View attachment 46995
Cool. Now that you've managed giant dice, you should start crocheting giant dice bags!


#107

PatrThom

PatrThom

this little guy can stand up on its tail!

View attachment 47006
I don't think I ever considered whether we would one day be able to 3-D print nudibranchs, but here we are.

--Patrick


#108

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I don't think I ever considered whether we would one day be able to 3-D print nudibranchs, but here we are.

--Patrick
I knew they reminded me of something

Post automatically merged:

Cool. Now that you've managed giant dice, you should start crocheting giant dice bags!
No money in crochet lol
That's actually a giant dice BOWL...the lid comes off, and maybe 100 dice or more would fit in there.

Printing more stuff for the market that happens in a couple weeks.
20231230_023653.jpg 20231230_112923.jpg 20231230_113739.jpg


#109

PatrThom

PatrThom

I knew they reminded me of something
Glaucilla_marginata.jpg

Glaucus marginatus - I didn't know which one exactly when I saw the pic, but really what else could they be?

--Patrick


#110

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

View attachment 47011
Glaucus marginatus - I didn't know which one exactly when I saw the pic, but really what else could they be?

--Patrick
designer calls them "frostphin" and their tails are very much ice-crystal-like in closeup. I think they're supposed to be some kind of ice/dragon/dolphin hybrid. But I definitely see the resemblance. And I can understand why I subconsciously made the color choices I made


#111

Far

Far

I was looking into resin printers but then realized there is a lot of fumes to be concerned about even when it's not actively printing plus additional steps to finish that are also fumy and while it's something I'm still interested in, it's definitely more of a backburner thing at the moment.


#112

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I was looking into resin printers but then realized there is a lot of fumes to be concerned about even when it's not actively printing plus additional steps to finish that are also fumy and while it's something I'm still interested in, it's definitely more of a backburner thing at the moment.
I looked at them too..they're much better for doing miniatures. But I shied away for the exact same reasons.


#113

PatrThom

PatrThom

While you're at it, take a look at the prices of the various resins, too. :eek:

--Patrick


#114

Vrii

Vrii

While you're at it, take a look at the prices of the various resins, too. :eek:

--Patrick
Sure, but if you're 3d printing minis you're comparing against Warhammer and the like, and $10 of resin is nothing compared to $50-100+ for the same model in a store.

A printer is something I definitely intend to buy at some point, but the cost and ventilation requirements combined have it well outside of feasibility for right now.


#115

Dei

Dei

I have a resin printer that I was using to print minis and honestly the detail felt really lacking. But it's 5 years old at this point so maybe they've gotten better since then.


#116

Vrii

Vrii

I have a resin printer that I was using to print minis and honestly the detail felt really lacking. But it's 5 years old at this point so maybe they've gotten better since then.
They definitely have. Top of the line (for individual use anyway) 8k printers are pretty incredible now.


#117

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20231231_101058.jpg


Loving these multi-color prints. Fine details come out pretty good at .16mm layer height too


#118

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Hah, who needs resin? Printed at regulation 28mm size, and I didn't even have to break out my .2mm nozzle (which still sits in a box)! I had a couple meters of orange PLA left on a roll, and I didn't really have any print jobs that could use that small of an amount--but I felt terrible throwing it away. These things only take about 1.6m of filament, so it was a good test to see how much my techniques have improved. (My first miniature attempt, days after first getting my printer, were a disaster)

20240103_180247.jpg


#119

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20240107_110744.jpg


50 shades of 3d printing


#120

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

This model was too much of a PITA to try to make in bulk but it was a fun one-off for a valentine's day gift.

20240109_111953.jpg


#121

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

This one made me think of @GasBandit for some reason :whistling:

20240110_101235.jpg
20240110_101207.jpg


#122

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

continuing with the trash animals theme
1704998745583.png


#123

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Last of the 'types' of trashcan animals I'm doing (though I'm also doing this one in a calico and a striped tabby)

1705076702937.png


#124

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

1705285875687.png

This one didn't come with a face. It was a 3 part print, intended to print each color separately, and they suggested painting the face on with acrylics last. Instead, I used my printer software and freehand painted a face on in the slicer, and printed it that way.


#125

figmentPez

figmentPez

Not at all a serious video, but, from Emily the Engineer: How Dangerous are 3D Printed Knives?


#126

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I've been seeing 3d printed balisongs and such, and so, coincidentally, this thought's been on my mind


#127

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

1705818648963.png

I know someone who might get a kick out of these... (cough cough @LittleKagsin cough)


#128

LittleKagsin

LittleKagsin

View attachment 47172
I know someone who might get a kick out of these... (cough cough @LittleKagsin cough)
I'm in LOVE :heart:


#129

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

So, you know those coupon books for couples? The ones where instead of giving a 'real' gift, you give the promise of some future task?
1705951814815.png

Well, I know a fair amount of kink people. I've been doing a brisk business using the same idea, but with kink themed 'tokens'.

1705951964062.png

I originally thought i could just do regular sexy themed ones, but I realized that there's a whole lot of stuff out there in that market already, but not too many things out there that cater to non-standard interests. I've been letting people tell me the kinks they want represented and printing them on demand.


#130

PatrThom

PatrThom

words on coins
Do you pierce them? So they can be worn on a chain/hung from hooks/etc?

--Patrick


#131

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Do you pierce them? So they can be worn on a chain/hung from hooks/etc?

--Patrick
Nah..they're meant to be spent, like these things:
1705958020052.png
1705958072249.png


I mean, if a customer WANTED me to, I could print them with a hole in place. But nobody's asked me to yet.


#132

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

bamboo dragon
1706146607393.png


#133

ThatNickGuy

ThatNickGuy

Waaaaaait a minute. That doesn't look like it's made of bamboo!

I feel bamboozled!


#134

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Waaaaaait a minute. That doesn't look like it's made of bamboo!

I feel bamboozled!
Of course not. It's a dragon. It's made of meat :) It's just got bamboo camouflage


#135

PatrThom

PatrThom


Rough, but promising.

--Patrick


#136

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

This was a difficult print, and there are imperfections, but I think it's good enough to give to my friend who's into hearts and skulls and roses.

1706383050086.png


#137

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Doing a Valentine's Day party this weekend, and we're doing Valentine's like in elementary school: Everyone is bringing a decorated box, to be filled by Valentines by everyone else. I'm making these cute 3d-printed secret message sliders

1706641138439.png




#138

PatrThom

PatrThom

I feel like, with a little Fusion tweaking, they could also be redesigned to appeal to your kink crowd.

--Patrick


#139

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I feel like, with a little Fusion tweaking, they could also be redesigned to appeal to your kink crowd.

--Patrick
Lol, I imagine that's true


#140

evilmike

evilmike

A new pattern for you?

Transformers: A toaster named Crumbs
1706660480167.png


#141

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

cute :)
It's not for me, though. And it's not saleable due to it's non-commercial license on printables (which I'm not sure holds much legal weight as pertains to selling prints of legally acquired designs--otherwise companies like Shapeways would have been taken down long ago) and the fact that Transformers is trademarked IP.


#142

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Stepping away from cute and cuddly a moment to make this bone dragon. The local gaming store specifically asked for it for their display case.

1707281674118.png


#143

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

My most ambitious print yet...about 54 hours total estimated to completion. Still got about 9 to go. Hopefully it will look pretty nice one all the support structures are carefully removed.

1707503067140.png


(For those who don't know, this is a Sleep Token Vessel mask. I'd never heard of them before getting this commission, but evidently they're a band that's become recently popular on the TikToks and the like)


#144

drifter

drifter

Not a fan of the lore behind the band, but it's a cool aesthetic and they got chops.


#145

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

1707542193381.png
1707542206307.png


#146

PatrThom

PatrThom

May I ask why it was printed right-side up? Just to keep from having to post-process so much of the dome?

--Patrick


#147

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

May I ask why it was printed right-side up? Just to keep from having to post-process so much of the dome?

--Patrick
yup...upside down is often suggested if you're going to sand and paint, but as I was multi-color printing upon request, with minimal post-processing, I preferred the top be as blemish free as possible.


#148

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I vend at local popup markets. 3d printing fidget animals and stuff. People have told me I should sell more 3d printed weapons (I do a couple of very blunt swords). I've specifically been asked to make balisongs. This is why I refuse.

(trigger warning: Already dead chicken murder)



#149

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I've learned a lot since October. The designer of these dragons specifically say that if you print them lower than about 60% scale, the joints will fuse.

I present to you: A dragon made at about 25% scale, with a jump ring thru the snout so it can be an earring! This is just a prototype--someone asked me if I could do it. I suppose the answer is "yes" :D I'll be making them a couple in color.

1708401694160.png


#150

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20240222_150701.jpg 20240222_150319.jpg 20240222_142820.jpg 20240222_142420.jpg
4 down, about 4 more to go.

plus, I designed and printed this beside caddy to slip over my friend's Ikea bedrail
1708656691676.png


#151

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Almost done whee
20240223_235210.jpg


#152

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20240227_104047.jpg

Sometimes, you just gotta make something for yourself. Approximately life sized


#153

PatrThom

PatrThom

View attachment 47450
Sometimes, you just gotta make something for yourself. Approximately life sized
Now go get an MRI and ask to keep the disk.

--Patrick


#154

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler



Am I officially a factory now?


#155

PatrThom

PatrThom

Workshop, at least.

--Patrick


#156

GasBandit

GasBandit

Oooh that's cool...



#157

drifter

drifter

What it would look like if they made a French adaptation of Space Battleship Yamato.


#158

GasBandit

GasBandit

What it would look like if they made a French adaptation of Space Battleship Yamato.
More of an Event Horizon, really. In fact it has a lot of the same story beats.


#159

drifter

drifter

I just meant the ship looks like it could have been made from a repurposed Eiffel Tower.


#160

PatrThom

PatrThom

I just meant the ship looks like it could have been made from a repurposed Eiffel Tower.
1709414636338.png
Yay for A.I., I guess?

--Patrick


#161

figmentPez

figmentPez



People come up with some crazy mechanisms that can be 3D printed.


#162

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

1709662258886.png

Now that I have 3 printers, I have time to print new stuff again.


#163

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20240306_021649.jpg

1709745561753.png


#164

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Design just dropped, and I had to print it immediately. Cherry blossom dragon
1710603402582.png


#165

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

and, an update on the 3d printed whistles..now in mutli-color wood fiber impregnated pla
1711127678779.png


#166

Dave

Dave

and, an update on the 3d printed whistles..now in mutli-color wood fiber impregnated pla
View attachment 47647
Did your post cut out or is there something called "impregnated pla"?


#167

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Did your post cut out or is there something called "impregnated pla"?
"wood fiber impregnated pla"

From Dictionary.com
1711135700427.png


Though admittedly the phrasing is mine. Most places call it a wood-pla composite, or call it an "additive" or call it "infused". But it's a valid use of the word ;)


#168

figmentPez

figmentPez

Did your post cut out or is there something called "impregnated pla"?
PLA, poly-lactic acid, a type of plastic. In this case it has wood fibers in it.


#169

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

and video


#170

PatrThom

PatrThom

Did your post cut out or is there something called "impregnated pla"?
PLA ("Pee-ell-ayy") is the acronymic abbreviation for probably the most common raw material used in consumer 3D printing, as Pez sez, above.

--Patrick


#171

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

It didn't occur to me that Dave might not know what PLA was, and that maybe I didn't get cut off trying to type "plastic" or something


#172

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler


My Saturday was full


#173

figmentPez

figmentPez

I don't know if this is a good deal or not, but Humble 3D Beastmasters Compendium with $1, $15 and $25 bundles of files for printing tabletop minis.


#174

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I don't know if this is a good deal or not, but Humble 3D Beastmasters Compendium with $1, $15 and $25 bundles of files for printing tabletop minis.
it looks good..but I haven't really looked into making minis aside from a couple of experiments. The local gaming store has a resin guy who does them, and I don't have enough personal need for them to spend a lot of time on it.

But I *did* make this bit of art yesterday while my printers have a little downtime...spoilered because art is often nudez

20240409_162602.jpg


#175

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Friend of mine requested this, and it turned out pretty good
1712978396700.png


#176

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I've ended up with a lot of coinage, so I needed to print a piggy bank.
This one seemed a good one, and I dolled it up a bit with gold rub-n-buff

spoilered for nuuudez
20240419_103520.jpg
20240419_103537.jpg


#177

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Dulcimer player at the local Renaissance Festival asked me if I could replicate a dulcimer hammer she had. I don't know anything about dulcimers, so these could suck big time. But they look alright.

1714448926898.png


#178

PatrThom

PatrThom

Even if you get the profile right, it's more about the balance/weight distribution, a bit like a tiny khopesh.
From observation--the finger holds near the neutral (balance) point with just a shade more weight towards the front. The head should be light enough to swing/move quickly via wrist motion, but have its weight loaded vertically (thin and tall) so that striking can be exact yet bring the full weight of the head to bear in a precise vertical profile. The back end should be beefy enough to allow the fingers holding it sufficient control to "soak up" any undesired rebound or sideways deviation, but still allow enough rebound to jump high enough off the string to head towards the next one(s).

--Patrick


#179

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I was talking about this same thing elsewhere and said something along the lines that "I'm sure dulcimer players geek out about their hammers the same way whistlers geek out about their whistles. thickness, weight, balance, striking area, etc etc etc. But since I don't have years of experience to inform my efforts, I'm just gonna use my eyes and calipers and if they don't like 'em, I warned them in advance that I didn't know what I was doing and PLA doesn't have the same weight as wood"


#180

PatrThom

PatrThom

Hey all it makes me think about is whether it is possible to make hammers with ridiculous geometry, or make a dead blow version, or ones that "break" like a torque wrench when struck, or come with accelerometers and RGB, or silliness like that.

--Patrick


#181

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

So, the dulcimer player said that the hammers were perfectly serviceable. They weren't her favorite, but the one she gave me to model them after weren't her favorite either, so I dunno what she was expecting :)

Also: I can wholly recommend the BambuLab P1S as a workhorse printer. 10 minutes ago, I lost power for less than a minute. I have print jobs going on 3 different printers.

Power came back on, printers rebooted, and I just hit "resume" on each of the printers and off they went, picking right up where they left off.


#182

figmentPez

figmentPez

Fidget "knife"


#183

figmentPez

figmentPez

CNC Kitchen covers highlights from RMRRF 2024 (Rocky Mountain RepRap Festival)

This first video includes a toolless quick change hotend, HueForge software for art prints, and 3D prints that were left outside for 7 years.



#184

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I've been fiddling with Hueforge for a little while. But it's not something that's really in my niche, so I've only used it to make friend/family gifts.

But I did make a big purchase today. Guess who has two thumbs and a laser now ;)

1715660381966.png
1715660390388.png


#185

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I figured you were, I just didn't know if you'd endure the headache of the other orientations in order to see whether something like "60/45/30deg angle, holes up" made any difference to playability/sound/etc.

--Patrick
So, I had a crazy thought and did an experiment. As it turns out....printing these things completely upside down like this:
1715908095753.png


means I only have to pop off the supports, which pop off cleanly, and it's immediately playable without me having to tweak a god damned thing!

Also, I have learned that if I put masking tape over my whistles before I laser them, not only are the edges of the letters cleaner but also the tape then acts as a stencil, which allows me to then dab a little paint over the entire thing without having to be too precise...peel the tape off, and voila! the maker's mark looks so much better.

1715908211103.png


#186

GasBandit

GasBandit

So, I had a crazy thought and did an experiment. As it turns out....printing these things completely upside down like this:
View attachment 48165

means I only have to pop off the supports, which pop off cleanly, and it's immediately playable without me having to tweak a god damned thing!

Also, I have learned that if I put masking tape over my whistles before I laser them, not only are the edges of the letters cleaner but also the tape then acts as a stencil, which allows me to then dab a little paint over the entire thing without having to be too precise...peel the tape off, and voila! the maker's mark looks so much better.

View attachment 48166
You forgot the L in front of the MW, you lecherous man whore.


#187

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

You forgot the L in front of the MW, you lecherous man whore.
Shhh...that's our little secret ;)


#188

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I've been avoiding TPU....everything I've read on Da Interwebs says it's a nightmare to work with. But finally, I bit the bullet, manually fed some TPU into one of my machines (because it won't go thru the AMS) and...it was fine

20240518 TPU 95a.gif


#189

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

doin the social media thing...


#190

figmentPez

figmentPez

CNC Kitchen covers highlights from RMRRF 2024 (Rocky Mountain RepRap Festival)

This first video includes a toolless quick change hotend, HueForge software for art prints, and 3D prints that were left outside for 7 years.

Follow up video: DIY Wire EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining), a filament color library, and a DIY plastic shredder.



#191

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Trying to take more dynamic and fun pics as I print new models

1716148367245.jpeg


#192

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Now that I can print squishy TPU, I can print these :p She says they're very comfy

20240519_160754.jpg


#193

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

"Back from the Dead" reclaimed waste skulls.

3d printing creates waste, and can create a lot on multicolor prints. Instead of throwing that waste away, it has been repurposed into these trippy multi-colored skulls

1717015850598.png
1717015858877.png


#194

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Any Helldivers here? To knock some rust off my 3D skills I made up some customized coins for my friends and I taking inspiration from the Malevelon Creek silliness that went on early in the game. Designed them in Fusion 360 and resin printed them on my Anycubic Photon X. There's a weird sheen made up of straight lines but I'm pretty sure it will disappear with some paint and primer.

Helldivers2Coins_01.jpg
Helldivers2Coins_02.jpg


#195

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Snap back to practicality, ope, there goes sanity
Ope, there goes Tin, and he dope, he so bad...

I dunno why I channeled eminem there for a second.

So, I have a bunch of product in some Ikea Kallax shelves. But, I really don't have enough shelf space--which is why you see some stuff double-stacked in the following picture.
1717186112039.png


Kallax shelves are 315mm square. They make an insert that divides that in two. But 3 of those blue bins will fit stacked on top of each other, with a little space to spare.

Ikea doesn't make an insert that divides Kallax shelves into 3. Etsy has some..for like $50 per shelf. I have 15 shelves I wanna do that to...no thanks. That's the price of the whole Kallax unit by the time I'm done!

So, i'm gonna print these shelf pins
1717186215104.png

And use this handy jig that I mocked up in Fusion to position them precisely:
1717186237972.png


Drill some holes with a 4.8mm drill bit, and just make them myself at a cost of something like 70 cents per shelf--even less if I can tear apart those pre-existing inserts and repurpose the wood.


#196

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20240601_135245.jpg


#197

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Tinwhistler, are you running a full on 3D print business? What are you using for these multicolor prints? I have an old Prusa Mk3 as my filament printer but I might want to upgrade at some point (it's still going strong though so it wouldn't be getting retired).


#198

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler, are you running a full on 3D print business? What are you using for these multicolor prints? I have an old Prusa Mk3 as my filament printer but I might want to upgrade at some point (it's still going strong though so it wouldn't be getting retired).
I am, but not full time...well, except for when I did the local renaissance festival for 5 weeks. Mostly 1-2 pop-up markets a month. I'm avoiding selling online because it's basically a race to the bottom on price and quality can be suspect online. I'd much rather sell in person, set a price I think is reasonable for growth and profit, and if someone tells me "I can get that cheaper on Temu!" I wish them well and suggest that maybe they do that.

That said, there's good money in it. So far, it's paid for 3 printers with multi-material systems, and a 2009 Ford F150 to haul around all the plastic in.

I'm printing with 3 BambuLab P1s printers with AMS units.

The print room, but the shelves in the video are full now:

The truck:
1717343515671.png


my business facebook page:


#199

figmentPez

figmentPez



#200

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

I am, but not full time...well, except for when I did the local renaissance festival for 5 weeks. Mostly 1-2 pop-up markets a month. I'm avoiding selling online because it's basically a race to the bottom on price and quality can be suspect online. I'd much rather sell in person, set a price I think is reasonable for growth and profit, and if someone tells me "I can get that cheaper on Temu!" I wish them well and suggest that maybe they do that.
I may have to pick your brain a bit on this if you are open to helping someone. I've been thinking about doing something like this for a while but I technically have the time to really look into it and work on it now. My 15 year old son was diagnosed with Leukemia back in February and I've been away from work since then. Really looking for something I can do from home on my own time instead of for uncaring corporate overlords so that I can accommodate my son's hospital schedule.

I'm up in Alberta Canada so I wouldn't be encroaching on your turf at all lol.


#201

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I may have to pick your brain a bit on this if you are open to helping someone. I've been thinking about doing something like this for a while but I technically have the time to really look into it and work on it now. My 15 year old son was diagnosed with Leukemia back in February and I've been away from work since then. Really looking for something I can do from home on my own time instead of for uncaring corporate overlords so that I can accommodate my son's hospital schedule.

I'm up in Alberta Canada so I wouldn't be encroaching on your turf at all lol.
I'm very open to discussions. I even discuss stuff with folks who come up to my booth. It's not like it's a secret formula..most folks can figure out how to do this kind of thing if they set their mind to it. I'd rather have a discussion with folks and have them leave with good feelings than be all secretive and have them come away thinking I'm a dick, and they learn it anyway. I'd rather make friends than rivals ;)


#202

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

I'm very open to discussions. I even discuss stuff with folks who come up to my booth. It's not like it's a secret formula..most folks can figure out how to do this kind of thing if they set their mind to it. I'd rather have a discussion with folks and have them leave with good feelings than be all secretive and have them come away thinking I'm a dick, and they learn it anyway. I'd rather make friends than rivals ;)
I'm pretty good with the tech side of both FDM and resin printing... I lack the business acumen lol. For me I wouldn't even know what to start with for printing. What do you find your best selling items are? Do you make your own models or do you buy ones that have commercial rights included?


#203

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I'm pretty good with the tech side of both FDM and resin printing... I lack the business acumen lol. For me I wouldn't even know what to start with for printing. What do you find your best selling items are? Do you make your own models or do you buy ones that have commercial rights included?
Except for tinwhistles and custom work, I find models with commercial rights. I have some feelings that trying to restrict what you do with a print after you print it is not legally binding (in a similar vein to trying to restrict if you can sell a crochet or knitted item made from a pattern), but it hasn't been court tested. But my most popular stuff happens to be licensed. I pay those fees not because of the restrictions, but because having those subscriptions gives me new models every month.

As for finding the best items, I use a bit of intuition on colors and such, spend a good amount of time painting models to set me apart from the "I'm just gonna print everything in gradient filament" guys, and then print a small sample. If they seem popular, I print more. If they don't, I don't. The cost of most print runs of 1-2 items is pretty negligible.

I mostly troll around the big-name 3d print design boards (Printables, Thingiverse, MakersWorld) and look for things that catch my sense of "cool" or "cute" that also looks like there's a good profit margin possible. Some prints look amazing, and then you see it's going to take hours of assembly, and $20 in filament. In my market, the mark-up would make those kinds of items unsalable.


#204

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

When you say "spend a good amount of time painting models" are you referring to painting them inside the slicer to print in multiple colours or painting them manually with an airbrush or something?

I'm really close to pulling the trigger on a Bambu P1S with an AMS unit.


#205

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

When you say "spend a good amount of time painting models" are you referring to painting them inside the slicer to print in multiple colours or painting them manually with an airbrush or something?

I'm really close to pulling the trigger on a Bambu P1S with an AMS unit.
Painting them in the slicer. There's no way I could achieve that level of precision with hand-painting. My eyesight and coordination are just not that good ;)


#206

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Painting them in the slicer. There's no way I could achieve that level of precision with hand-painting. My eyesight and coordination are just not that good ;)
That's what I suspected. Do you do any post processing smoothing techniques or is everything just as it comes off the printer? Sorry for so many questions lol


#207

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

That's what I suspected. Do you do any post processing smoothing techniques or is everything just as it comes off the printer? Sorry for so many questions lol
I try to pick models that require minimal post processing :)
for things with big curves, I try to use adaptive layer heights to minimize layer lines.

The folks in my area won't pay a lot for stuff, generally. So I try not to make things that will take a lot of my time once it comes off the print bed, because I can't justify the time spent versus the money I can get. My biggest sellers are $10.00 items.


#208

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Snap back to practicality, ope, there goes sanity
Ope, there goes Tin, and he dope, he so bad...

I dunno why I channeled eminem there for a second.

So, I have a bunch of product in some Ikea Kallax shelves. But, I really don't have enough shelf space--which is why you see some stuff double-stacked in the following picture.
View attachment 48331

Kallax shelves are 315mm square. They make an insert that divides that in two. But 3 of those blue bins will fit stacked on top of each other, with a little space to spare.

Ikea doesn't make an insert that divides Kallax shelves into 3. Etsy has some..for like $50 per shelf. I have 15 shelves I wanna do that to...no thanks. That's the price of the whole Kallax unit by the time I'm done!

So, i'm gonna print these shelf pins
View attachment 48332
And use this handy jig that I mocked up in Fusion to position them precisely:
View attachment 48333

Drill some holes with a 4.8mm drill bit, and just make them myself at a cost of something like 70 cents per shelf--even less if I can tear apart those pre-existing inserts and repurpose the wood.
1717729010084.png


Seems to work out just fine.

edit: All done
1717740585062.png


#209

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20240607_013212.jpg

Fennec foxes anyone? @LittleKagsin :awesome:

20240607_130705.jpg


I really need to 3d print a moon for these three guys to howl up at ;)


#210

GasBandit

GasBandit



#211

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

That's...sadly very familiar


#212

Just Me

Just Me

Well, at least it's only spaghetti and not a fat blob of death.
Count your blessings.


#213

PatrThom

PatrThom

Also known as, "I forgot to include some crucial supports."
I had an SLS print fail rather spectacularly once because two objects had barely a square mm of overlap and the laser did NOT like that.

--Patrick


#214

figmentPez

figmentPez

This is SLS printing, not the more common FDM, but I think it's really interesting:



TL;DW by mixing copper chromate in with the nylon being sintered in the SLS printer, then using a pulsed laser to create traces on the printed part, and finally using a chemical bath to plate copper onto those paths, he was able to create circuits, with the goal of making circuits on curved surfaces, trying to mimic the industrial process of "metalized interconnect devices".


#215

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Classic failed print lol


#216

PatrThom

PatrThom

I had an SLS print fail rather spectacularly once
This is SLS printing, not the more common FDM, but I think it's really interesting:
Whoops, my bad. I meant SLA, not SLS.

--Patrick


#217

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Working on making a "mini" line that I can sell in little bundles
20240616_150956.jpg
20240616_150230.jpg


And finding more uses for 'waste' PLA
20240615_175153.jpg


#218

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

1718680980917.png


#219

PatrThom

PatrThom

I vote for calling them "Ankyl-biters."

--Patrick


#220

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I've often lamented at the poor showing of Cthulhu among fidget toys. Plenty of non-fidget stuff, sure. But not too many good fidgets.
Yesterday, all that changed ;)
1719079137848.png
1719079144463.png


Articulated tentacles, wings, arms, legs and tail, and he doesn't look stupid!


#221

PatrThom

PatrThom

He will consume ALL your nervous energy, and still demand more.

--Patrick


#222

Frank

Frank

So, any y'all got 50 grand kicking around (plus 7 grand for the deodorizer)?



The quantum leap in 3D printing tech man.


#223

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

He will consume ALL your nervous energy, and still demand more.

--Patrick
Here's praying he consumes people's impulse buying resistance :) I sold six nearly instantly.


#224

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

So, any y'all got 50 grand kicking around (plus 7 grand for the deodorizer)?



The quantum leap in 3D printing tech man.
I wish...sigh


#225

Frank

Frank

My buddy was showing me this stuff and it was mind boggling to me. It's still a far ways off of being consumer available but holy smokes.


#226

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

My buddy was showing me this stuff and it was mind boggling to me. It's still a far ways off of being consumer available but holy smokes.
Years ago, my mom and I were spitballing about what the next truly disruptive technology would be. Kind of like how personal computers went from maybe a half dozen in a neighborhood to several in every home (if you count smart phones etc). I told her 3d printing.

I had never yet played with one, and the state of the technology was abysmal then, but I could foresee that if you could just press a button and create any plastic thing you needed, cheap items from China and making a trip to Walmart for 70-80% of your household needs would just...disappear.

There's already so much that I'd normally buy that I just print these days. Usually because it's faster, cheaper, or easier than me making a trip to the store. Especially at night, when the store is closed. Once, I would've said "I'll make a trip to Walmart in the morning to buy shelf brackets". Now, I'm like "I'll wake up in the morning, and have as many shelf brackets as I need at about a penny per."

When this technology gets as widely spread as early home computing, it'll be a huge societal game changer.


#227

Frank

Frank

Once I get some more space I intend to get a resin one, a filament one and such too. I've been fiending to get into it for over a year now.


#228

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Couple of new cuties

20240701_190557.jpg
20240622_091021.jpg


#229

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

my Fusion skills are improving.
1720753171132.png


1720753196658.png


1720753214676.png


(If you know, you know..)


#230

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

another practical print

I vape. And I get my vape juice from a company in California because it's cheap and they have the flavors I like. The problem: California has some rules about flavored vapes and nicotine, so this company ships them separately (for you to mix yourself) in order to comply with the letter of the law.

The annoyance: nic juice is thick and syrupy, and the nic bottles are considerably smaller than the vape juice bottles, so you can't just rest one atop the other while the syrup all comes out. The solution: A quick-and-dirty measurement with calipers and a 5 minute print later:

20240712_145836.jpg


Now the one bottle can sit up there as long as it needs to in order to fully drain into the other without my clumsy ass inevitably dropping one (which i manage to do every time I get a new order of this stuff in)


#231

Far

Far

Not sure if it's even a problem you're running into but would a small hole in the 3d printed coupler cap help speed up the flow rate from one to another, if it's slow due to the viscosity? Probably could be added easily with a drill even now.


#232

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Not sure if it's even a problem you're running into but would a small hole in the 3d printed coupler cap help speed up the flow rate from one to another, if it's slow due to the viscosity? Probably could be added easily with a drill even now.
viscosity...the nic juice is syrupy. The jig isn't air tight, so vapor-lock is not a problem. the problem is I get like 3 or 4 or these at a time, and I get tired of holding the nic juice up for a couple minutes for each one to make the transfer, so i made the little jig to take my arms out of the equation.


#233

PatrThom

PatrThom

another practical print

I vape. And I get my vape juice from a company in California because it's cheap and they have the flavors I like. The problem: California has some rules about flavored vapes and nicotine, so this company ships them separately (for you to mix yourself) in order to comply with the letter of the law.

The annoyance: nic juice is thick and syrupy, and the nic bottles are considerably smaller than the vape juice bottles, so you can't just rest one atop the other while the syrup all comes out. The solution: A quick-and-dirty measurement with calipers and a 5 minute print later:

View attachment 48835

Now the one bottle can sit up there as long as it needs to in order to fully drain into the other without my clumsy ass inevitably dropping one (which i manage to do every time I get a new order of this stuff in)
Now do the restaurant ketchup thing! But also for shampoo, hand lotion, conditioner, hand soap, etc.

--Patrick


#234

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Now do the restaurant ketchup thing! But also for shampoo, hand lotion, conditioner, hand soap, etc.

--Patrick
I could, if i had the need for such things...or if someone was willing to pay me to do it ;)


#235

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

I'm hoping to have some neat stuff to show here fairly soon once I finish my 3D printing room. Having to clean up, reorganize, run power and add a direct exhaust fan into this room has been exhausting... lol.

BTW the threads look good Tinwhistler. I just had to make some special parts for my rain barrel setup (clone the threads and make custom fittings and hose barbs so I can get the rain diverter working the way I want it to) so I can appreciate how annoying making functional threads is.

I also may have picked up a Bambulab P1S. I can barely believe how fast this thing prints compared to my ancient Prusa Mk3. It's blowing my mind.


#236

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Once I get some more space I intend to get a resin one, a filament one and such too. I've been fiending to get into it for over a year now.
DOOOOO ITTTTT!!!!! :)


#237

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

That's what I suspected. Do you do any post processing smoothing techniques or is everything just as it comes off the printer? Sorry for so many questions lol
I try to pick models that require minimal post processing :)
for things with big curves, I try to use adaptive layer heights to minimize layer lines.

The folks in my area won't pay a lot for stuff, generally. So I try not to make things that will take a lot of my time once it comes off the print bed, because I can't justify the time spent versus the money I can get. My biggest sellers are $10.00 items.
Let me come back and talk a bit more about the biz.
I have a *ton* of varieties of items. Here's the layout of the pop-up market I did yesterday.
1720966774495.jpeg


For me, the table in the front with the small items are the biggest sellers. They're the $5 and $10 minis/babies. East Texas is not as economically strong as some larger cities, so the large $20/30/40 dragons don't sell very well.

You'll notice that *everything* is multicolored. I've had events where I had competing 3d print vendors, but most folks buy an Ender 3 or other cheap single-color printer, and print everything in the same gradients. Which seems cool, until you come across my booth and see everything in multiple vibrant colors. I have always way outsold any competitors at the same events I'm at. The multi-color thing is super important, at least here in my market. Even something as simple as painting the eyes on a mini, where everything else is a single color, makes the model pop.

That said, as mentioned previously, multi-color creates waste. Since it's a purge at each layer, the purge amounts are the same if you print one model, or 12 on the same plate. So it's more economical to print a dozen items and average the waste costs across each item.

1720967048986.png


Printing 8 of these cherry blossom dragons at a time means they cost me $.69 apiece in materials. I sell them for $10, and they're a popular seller. Printing a single one costs me almost $2.00.

1720967681616.png


Since the slicer knows how much filament you use, and you can input the cost of that filament, it will calculate costs for you, which is convenient. Still profitable, but I'd rather put that extra $1.31 in my pocket, and not in the trash bin. I try to price things at even price points: $5, 10, 20, 30, 40. I mark up my costs between 7 and 12 times to meet those price points. This accounts for things like taxes, wear and tear on the machines, electricity, my time spent on the business, etc. It also means that I can give discounts, cut a break to a kid that only has $4.00, or wholesale for half-price to retail establishments (which I'm doing at a gaming store in my town) and not kill the business.

At the average in-person 5-hour event, I'll usually take home $500-600 in gross sales.

Since a large amount of time is spent on color purging, printing multiples also works in your favor as adding more prints to the bed does not scale the print time linearly. A single cherry blossom baby is a 7 hour print on a P1S. Printing 8 at a time is a 19 hour print--on a P1S. It'd probably be 4-5 times as long on an Ender 3.


#238

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

3d printed curved wine bottle display/holder in gradient wood-infused PLA

20240715_220701.jpg


#239

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Monitoring electrical use is Serious Business™ in this household.

1721161683684.png


#240

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Got an order almost immediately for a dozen of these in various colors from the local game shop. One more color (deep blue with black shading similar to the others shown) to go!
20240721_211652.jpg


And, since I had flexible TPU left over, I decided to make myself a cheap case for my new phone.
photo_2024-07-19_22-33-08.jpg


#241

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

TinWhistler, that is very cool! And yes all your math about slicer optimizations with regards to colour makes sense.

For me though, I'm in Calgary Canada and everyone here doing what you're doing is using the Bambu multi colour printers already so I have to figure out some other way to distinguish myself. I feel I'm going to have to come up with my own custom stuff or maybe go the resin printing customizable route to offer different products. I'm probably also going to have to go mail order which may be a necessary evil for me.

The info on colour optimization is super helpful to remember though. I will be getting the Multi colour AMS in the future.


#242

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

no job is too small! lol

1721846363232.png


Replacement button on a motorized scooter. I'm getting decent at Fusion. It actually took less time to measure with calipers and design than it took to print.


#243

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

no job is too small! lol

View attachment 48969

Replacement button on a motorized scooter. I'm getting decent at Fusion. It actually took less time to measure with calipers and design than it took to print.
Nice, I love repairing broken things with my 3D printer. It's honestly my favorite use case for it.


#244

PatrThom

PatrThom

It's seriously the main reason I'm considering one.
But I already have so many expensive toys I don't use. Sigh.

--Patrick


#245

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

MOAR TOYS!!!!!


#246

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

no job is too small! lol

View attachment 48969

Replacement button on a motorized scooter. I'm getting decent at Fusion. It actually took less time to measure with calipers and design than it took to print.
success :)

photo_2024-07-29_12-31-20.jpg


#247

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

getting quite pleased with my Fusion progress. Someone saw my dragon light switch covers and asked if i could print one in a baseball theme. I couldn't find anything on the web, so I said "it's not that difficult of a geometry" and gave designing one from the ground up a shot. they were pleased and placed the order. Look at me, earning that $9.00/hour lol

1722366241322.png


#248

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20240802_001548.jpg


#249

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

gearing up for the spooky season..these key chain fobs will have actual key chains attached when the hardware arrives tomorrow
1722661738090.jpeg


#250

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

It's crazy how fast I went from "where can I buy this thing I need?" to "I wonder if I can print this thing I need."
Call-back to this thought.
I own a safety razor, and the little disposal case I have for it is now full after 3 years. Got on Amazon to buy it again.
1723135660438.png


Fuck that, I say to myself. I find one online that I can print for about $1.50 in materials.
1723135695512.png


And while functional, it doesn't really look 'sleek'. So, I decide to see if I can stretch my Fusion skills some more to make one that more closely mimics the one I've been using.

1723135618472.png


I guess I'll find out in a couple hours if everything fits together :)


#251

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20240808_142434.jpg


Ah...beautiful!

And available for anyone else to use:


#252

sixpackshaker

sixpackshaker


Tin, could you print a scale for me? This is a knife design that I am wild about. keep it under $50 and I'll buy it.

For the Lander 1.


#253

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler


Tin, could you print a scale for me? This is a knife design that I am wild about. keep it under $50 and I'll buy it.

For the Lander 1.
These are uncomplicated, low-materials prints. The Lander one comes with 2 models: "True to production" and "offset for 3d printing". I have no idea why the 3d printing one is marginally smaller. But I can print them both for you, and ship them for like $14.00 priority mail (basically $5.00 + shipping)

Did you want a specific color? Be aware that they print flat...so anything in a gradient filament probably won't look the way you want. They'll do gradients like this:
1723324258575.png


Not like this:
1723324317058.png


And there's probably not enough material here to actually get to a color change.

If you are willing to wait a couple days, I've got some cool special effects print bed plates coming.


#254

PatrThom

PatrThom

I have no idea why the 3d printing one is marginally smaller.
Usually they're a little bit bigger, because some of the (resin) 3D printing methods and materials will shrink slightly during curing.

--Patrick


#255

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Usually they're a little bit bigger, because some of the (resin) 3D printing methods and materials will shrink slightly during curing.

--Patrick
FDM can suffer from "elephant's foot"..where the bottom layers squish out wider than normal.
1723325696276.png


But that's a 'first couple layers' problem, and not something that would require a totally different model. Most modern, good 3d printers can compensate for this with software, and I've never actually experienced it in any of my prints.


#256

sixpackshaker

sixpackshaker

These are uncomplicated, low-materials prints. The Lander one comes with 2 models: "True to production" and "offset for 3d printing". I have no idea why the 3d printing one is marginally smaller. But I can print them both for you, and ship them for like $14.00 priority mail (basically $5.00 + shipping)

Did you want a specific color? Be aware that they print flat...so anything in a gradient filament probably won't look the way you want. They'll do gradients like this:
View attachment 49139

Not like this:
View attachment 49142

And there's probably not enough material here to actually get to a color change.

If you are willing to wait a couple days, I've got some cool special effects print bed plates coming.
Could you look at 80s camo. I love the old woodland pattern.


#257

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Could you look at 80s camo. I love the old woodland pattern.
Well, "camo" isn't really a color :) It's 4-5 colors. Unfortunately, unlike 3d modeling software where I can lay a skin/material over a 3d shell, in 3d printing, I have to manually colorize stuff myself with primitive tools.
1723344169951.png


A quick mock-up looks something like
1723344208892.png


Just be aware that this introduces a lot of filament changes into a short number of layers. Which increases the cost quite a bit. We're talking more like $15.00 + shipping ($24.00 total).


#258

PatrThom

PatrThom

Not to mention it will introduce multiple flaws into the strength of the material.

--Patrick


#259

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Not to mention it will introduce multiple flaws into the strength of the material.

--Patrick
I'm not so sure this is true. I've printed plenty of multi-color items, and they don't seem to be inherently weaker at the color transition areas.

(including some with crazy expensive amounts of color changes
1723346049117.jpeg

)


#260

sixpackshaker

sixpackshaker

We also could meet at McDs or Dennys... When I go to see Mom or something. I go to Longview once in a while...


#261

sixpackshaker

sixpackshaker

How about orange with blue liner? or, let your imagination run wild.


#262

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

How about orange with blue liner? or, let your imagination run wild.
Well, I wouldn't say I'm very imaginative at these kinds of thing. I'm good at coloring within the lines, so to speak :)
Orange and blue are pretty easy to do
1723392541651.png 1723392556907.png

Changing colors at a layer means only one color change, so we're back down to $5.00


#263

PatrThom

PatrThom

The availability of 3D printers might be about to become a little complicated.
...because patent fighting.

--Patrick


#264

GasBandit

GasBandit

The availability of 3D printers might be about to become a little complicated.
...because patent fighting.

--Patrick
Soon we really might HAVE to 3D print 3D printers.


#265

PatrThom

PatrThom

Soon we really might HAVE to 3D print 3D printers.
You think you're pretty clever, young man, but it's 3D printers all the way down!

--Patrick


#266

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Well, that just pushed me off the fence to get my fourth (!) 3d printer before they become difficult to acquire ;)
(Narrator's voice: It wasn't a Stratasys)

So, I've been slowly and continually making improvements to the 3d whistle project. I've recently gone from a curved blade to a straight blade, which has strengthened the volume, tone and the bell note. This was tricky. The curved blade happens naturally when you cut into a curved tube. The straight blade required me to put some hidden squared off geometry inside the whistle head, but in such a way that it didn't disturb the tuning, airflow, etc. I've been meaning to try this for a while, but it's been only recently that I felt my Fusion 360 skills had given me an understanding on what to do to make it happen.

I've also developed a C body that fits on the same head, so now I can sell C, D or C/D combo whistles/sets.

1723581472687.png


With the straight blade, now I need supports in that area, because, well, that's quite the bridge in an area where geometry really matters. Luckily, my slicer skills are also improving, so I was able to constrain the supports to this little tab in the windway hole that easily pops out.

1723581439955.png


#267

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I asked one of the most recognizable pro whistlers on the planet if she'd take a look at one of my whistles, and she said yes! So nervous.


#268

GasBandit

GasBandit

I asked one of the most recognizable pro whistlers on the planet if she'd take a look at one of my whistles, and she said yes! So nervous.
What an honor to have Matilda the Hun use your whistle!


#269

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

What an honor to have Matilda the Hun use your whistle!
I had to google that :)


#270

GasBandit

GasBandit

I had to google that :)
Aww, this is how I learn she died in 2022 :(


#271

PatrThom

PatrThom

At first glance I also read the same thing as Gas and was very confused.

--Patrick


#272

GasBandit

GasBandit

At first glance I also read the same thing as Gas and was very confused.

--Patrick
.... and this is where I went back and saw it does indeed say pro WHISTLERS not pro WRESTLERS


#273

figmentPez

figmentPez

.... and this is where I went back and saw it does indeed say pro WHISTLERS not pro WRESTLERS
OH! I misread that as well.


#274

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler



#275

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Well, that just pushed me off the fence to get my fourth (!) 3d printer before they become difficult to acquire ;)
(Narrator's voice: It wasn't a Stratasys)
20240815_155347.jpg


#276

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Your 3D print room is much cooler than mine lol


#277

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Your 3D print room is much cooler than mine lol
Well, i'm a single guy in a 3 bedroom house. I'm just glad I am finally fully utilizing the room. :D


#278

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

I'll still post pics when mine is up and running :)


#279

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Halloween prints continue

20240819_000600.jpg

20240819_000217.jpg


#280

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

More decorations :)

20240821_083737.jpg
-5057903554383162812_121.jpg
20240819_171838.jpg


#281

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

my longest print yet. Almost 4 days!

1724377116820.jpeg


But, I made some improvements in the process so that I don't gotta keep checking the waste chute for clogs (the last time I tried these, it clogged while I was sleeping and couldn't catch it in time before it built up enough to fail). I ended up buying "3-in-1 PTFE lubricant" (which is basically liquid teflon) and coating the inside of the waste chute with it. 3 days of printing. No clogs at all.

These are printed at 0.08mm layer heights (normally I do 0.20) so it's got nearly 3 times as many layers as a typical print. Every layer is a color change. That's a lot of waste filament. But it's soooo smooth. Super satisfying

1724377138738.png


#282

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

So, they make these build plates with holographic micro-textures on them--when you print on those plates, that same texture gets transferred to your print.



#283

PatrThom

PatrThom

Ooo, that could really be something with a little creative masking, assuming the print doesn't detach.

--Patrick


#284

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Love it! How thick is that Nightmare before Christmas piece? Is it mostly flat? How many colours were used? I really do want to get an AMS in the future but I just can't justify it at the moment.

Those cats are cool and the thin layer lines really do take them to the next level.


#285

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

This is about as cool as I get lately... I designed a container to hold the AAA battery adapter and USB-C charge cable for my 1200 watt Duracell flashlight as well as a wall mount for the whole thing. I have three of these mounted around the house and it's handy to always know where to get a working flashlight.

IMG_2139.jpgIMG_2140.jpgIMG_2141.jpgIMG_2142.jpgIMG_2143.jpg


#286

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Love it! How thick is that Nightmare before Christmas piece? Is it mostly flat? How many colours were used? I really do want to get an AMS in the future but I just can't justify it at the moment.

Those cats are cool and the thin layer lines really do take them to the next level.
Jack is thin--3.4mm...5 colors. But you can do it in a 4 color ams by putting a pause before the last color. Because HueForge prints are distinct colors per layer, you can even do it without an AMS if you don't mind switching the color 4 or 5 times on a print.
Post automatically merged:

This is about as cool as I get lately... I designed a container to hold the AAA battery adapter and USB-C charge cable for my 1200 watt Duracell flashlight as well as a wall mount for the whole thing. I have three of these mounted around the house and it's handy to always know where to get a working flashlight.

View attachment 49278View attachment 49279View attachment 49280View attachment 49281View attachment 49282
I do love me a practical print :D


#287

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I have 3 weeks until my next vending event and I've run out of things to print until I clear out some inventory.

So, I'm making something totally stupid for myself. About 30 hours to print.
1724951230792.png


#288

GasBandit

GasBandit

I have 3 weeks until my next vending event and I've run out of things to print until I clear out some inventory.

So, I'm making something totally stupid for myself. About 30 hours to print.
View attachment 49295
I expect brisk sales in New Jersey.


#289

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

I should print that banana warrior in resin for you lol.


#290

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I should print that banana warrior in resin for you lol.
That'd be cool. :) But I'd never paint it lol


#291

PatrThom

PatrThom

That'd be cool. :) But I'd never paint it lol
Maybe you could get @Krisken to do that for you.

--Patrick


#292

Krisken

Krisken

Maybe you could get @Krisken to do that for you.

--Patrick
Lol, thanks for the tag, but I haven't painted a mini in years. A banana fighter is tempting though.


#293

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

IMG_2146.jpg


I've been known to paint a miniature here and there.


#294

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I haven't tried to paint miniatures since I was in junior high. My efforts would be woefully inadequate lol


#295

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Done!
20240830_234221.jpg20240830_234213.jpg


#296

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

What scale are we looking at? 28mm heroic like warhammer ones? Looks fun. Needs some paint! :D


#297

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

What scale are we looking at? 28mm heroic like warhammer ones? Looks fun. Needs some paint! :D
The files are at 28mm, but I had to scale them up 160% to get a print that'd work on my machines. Even then, they're a bit fragile


#298

figmentPez

figmentPez

3D Printing a Benchy large enough for a human to ride in:


#299

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Haha Pez, I just watched that video. All I can say is that's a lot of filament... Maybe Tinwhistler can make one... I don't have the printers for it lol.


#300

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

IMG_2149.jpgIMG_2150.jpgIMG_2151.jpg

Figured I'd post some Warhammer 40k styled miniatures I printed a while ago. Excited to try and get these painted up. This is on my old resin printer as well... the new one should make the layer lines invisible to the naked eye which will be pretty awesome.


#301

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

So, I get an order of these things from time to time...
1725387143265.png


There are *no* flat surfaces to lay down on the print bed, so I've been doing it like this. But, I've been real unhappy with the finish and cleanup of this particular area right here. That blue circle is a "brim" and it usually ends up inside the textured bit on the handle, and it sucks to clean up and I lose definition.
1725387186412.png


Well, I just got another order of these things, so I figured I'd experiment.

In theory..this should work. it's got low-adhesion zones, but I just cleaned and applied liquid PEI glue to the plate, so I was hopeful...
1725387273270.png


But..you know...it didn't.
1725387358799.png


So, I decided to try a trick to "float" the objects above the print bed, so that there was no brim on the actual object. Bambu Studio doesn't let you do that, but i know a trick or two :)

1725387432652.png


The trick is that little dot in the lower right. It's a 0.5mm primitive cube with a brim. The knives are merged with it, so that the slicer treats them as a single object. Then, you can float stuff in the Z axis all you want, and the slicer will happily put supports under it. This actually worked pretty good.

But I have one more thing to try:

1725387549770.png


I wasn't sure about this one, but so far it's done great
1725387601980.png


#302

Far

Far

@Tinwhistler What are you using to model in? I want to try to make a scale version of my DND campaign's map ala this:


I have a bit of modeling experience(ie I can kinda do fumble my way through things, and once made a bracket to hold my phone while using a 8-bitdo controller and had it printed) but tried Fusion360 cause that's what everyone was saying is the best to learn and hit a wall.


#303

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

@Tinwhistler What are you using to model in? I want to try to make a scale version of my DND campaign's map ala this:


I have a bit of modeling experience(ie I can kinda do fumble my way through things, and once made a bracket to hold my phone while using a 8-bitdo controller and had it printed) but tried Fusion360 cause that's what everyone was saying is the best to learn and hit a wall.
Fusion 360. Which is great for engineering models. But it's a steep learning curve, and I wouldn't attempt it with more organic stuff. Everything I'm hearing is blender or zbrush for less engineering-oriented stuff.

these days, I could model something like in the video in probably an hour. It all looks like geometric primitives.


#304

PatrThom

PatrThom

I figured I'd experiment.
The only thing I can add from my time doing "serious" 3D printing is that the two things that matter most are:
  1. Print layer orientation (as it compares/relates to object geometry)
  2. The location of "peaks" and "valleys"
1 - When you print something, the final layering should be parallel to the longest axis of the object being printed, meaning that these objects should be printed "wide" and not "tall" since the largest surfaces should be as parallel to the bed as possible. The only time this doesn't really apply is when you are deliberately trying to force the grain to go in a specific direction for some reason (shear resistance, tricky cleanup, whatever). Additionally, the model should be placed so that as many angles as possible should be "pure," by which I mean as close to vertical, horizontal, or one of the most even divisions of those (30, 45, 60, etc). If you're going to print them on edge like that, the final tip should probably be as close to perfectly vertical as possible. In fact, All the final top tips should be as close to vertical as you can get, if possible. So if you can't build them flat on the bed because you don't want the cleanup chore for whichever face was pointing down, you might try something like this orientation:
1725403590973.png

The idea here is that, not only is the tip of the blade as close to vertical as you can get, but so are the points at the tops of the finger grooves and the quillon, and so on. Neither one is perfectly vertical, but the orientation is such that as many of them are as close to vertical as possible, or else they are as close to horizontal as possible (like the tip of the pommel).

2 - Peaks and valleys and "filed" notches (like the ones on the back of the hilt and in the thumb groove) are your bane, though. Because none of them can come out of nothing, they have to be individually supported until they "grow" enough to join the main body. Perfectly vertical peaks/valleys can be terminally printed with no additional lateral support, they just need some kind of vertical support. They can even be printed a bit off-angle so long as the angle they are off by isn't more than the angle of the side of the peak (i.e., the more acute the angle of the peak, the less leeway you have). That's why I say you have some leeway to rock the entire piece more vertical or more horizontal a bit if the terminal peaks of your finger grooves and blade tip aren't pointing in exactly the same directions. Any, and I mean ANY projection from the workpiece that terminates in any kind of downward angle OR which "bottoms out" without resting on the main body (think like a power line) has to grow from an independent support that touches the table, no exceptions. So the other struggle when orienting your workpiece is that you are trying to find an orientation that minimizes the number of faces/angles that are more than 90 degrees off vertical in any direction. You can easily 3D print a letter "Y" because the two upper arms "grow" from the central stem, meaning that they have support (assuming they don't get too long). You can print the letter "H" because the two legs get joined together when the center bar gets printed. You can even print an "R" or "K" because even though the diagonal leg of each is at a downward angle, it is anchored to the table and provides its own support for when it finally joins the rest of the letter. But you can't print, say, a question mark "?" or dollar sign "$" vertically because the tip of each top hook hangs down and is completely unsupported when you try to build the letter from the bottom up out of horizontal layers.

Figuring out the optimal orientation of the printed piece and choosing which points will need support is the 3D printing equivalent of the old photography saying of, "You should endeavor to do as much of your image editing/correction as possible before you click the shutter."

--Patrick


#305

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

So, I get an order of these things from time to time...
View attachment 49343
This is what you need a resin printer for... print it out of an ABS-like resin, you'd get absolutely fantastic results.


#306

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

@Tinwhistler What are you using to model in? I want to try to make a scale version of my DND campaign's map ala this:


I have a bit of modeling experience(ie I can kinda do fumble my way through things, and once made a bracket to hold my phone while using a 8-bitdo controller and had it printed) but tried Fusion360 cause that's what everyone was saying is the best to learn and hit a wall.
The map shown in that video could be pretty easily done in Fusion. That said, I use the word "easily" because I've been doing CAD for most of my career. Parametric modelers can be weird to learn.


#307

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Making things for myself. The tealight holder, I designed myself in fusion and I really like how it turned out. The mushroom wall shelves, I found online, but also really like.

20240905_004837.jpg

20240905_072642.jpg

photo_2024-08-29_14-03-28.jpg


#308

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

View attachment 49354
The idea here is that, not only is the tip of the blade as close to vertical as you can get, but so are the points at the tops of the finger grooves and the quillon, and so on. Neither one is perfectly vertical, but the orientation is such that as many of them are as close to vertical as possible, or else they are as close to horizontal as possible (like the tip of the pommel).
This was the orientation I tried the very first time I tried to print them, and it didn't work out. But that was some time ago, and I knew less about supports and bed adhesion and such, so it might be worth revisiting. That said, the orientation I ended up with worked out really well. The quality was good, and the supports were super easy to remove, so it may be a matter of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" at this point.

I get regular orders of this knife, and a kunai throwing dagger--usually when I'm already swamped, so I haven't had time to fiddle with it properly. I'd been getting around a 20% failure rate, which was fine since my markup accounts for such things, but after playing with both, I was able to print 20 with good quality and without a single failure, so playing with it further would probably only be of academic benefit.


#309

drawn_inward

drawn_inward

I like those mushroom shelves! Neat idea!


#310

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Making things for myself. The tealight holder, I designed myself in fusion and I really like how it turned out. The mushroom wall shelves, I found online, but also really like.

View attachment 49376

The tealight holder is cool, seeing things people design themselves is always awesome.

Those mushroom shelves are begging for some soft LED glow lighting for night time.


#311

PatrThom

PatrThom

it may be a matter of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" at this point.
My only real experience has been with tanks of LASER-cured resin, or upside-down LCD trays, so I don't know how well that would translate to filament printers. I still hope to find out some day.

--Patrick


#312

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

another self-design. My girlfriend has been asking for a scoop for the big ice tray in my freezer.
Most everthing I was finding online printed vertically like this, because the handle was not on the same plane as the bottom of the scoop.
1725589561966.png


I didn't want that--for one, tall, thin prints tend to fail without good supports, brims, whatever. I didn't wanna dick with print settings. I wanted to throw something on the printer and have it come off easily. Two, tall prints are slower, because z-axis doesn't move as fast as x/y axis and there's a minimum layer time for cooling. This thing prints in about 5 hours.

I found a couple with the handle in line with the base plane, but they had extreme fillets (rounded edges) on the bottom, which meant that there were lots of complaints about poor print quality in those spots because of the overhangs.

So, I spent 90 minutes in fusion designing this:
1725589684962.png


It prints in 3 hours, and has all of the features I want, including a perfectly flat bottom plane. The scoop size/area is about the same. And mine costs 50 cents less to print. So I saved money *and* time, even with design time combined with print time. It's on the printer now.

I really feel like my Fusion skills are leveling up really quickly these days.


#313

PatrThom

PatrThom

Having a flat bottom plane means your hand will dig into the ice while scooping, but otherwise...yeah, nothing helps you gain XP like grinding the very activity you want to level.

--Patrick


#314

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Having a flat bottom plane means your hand will dig into the ice while scooping, but otherwise...yeah, nothing helps you gain XP like grinding the very activity you want to level.

--Patrick
I go in at an angle and my ice bucket isn't industrial-sized :) The tip of this thing hits bottom before my hand ever reaches the ice.

Successful print:
20240906_011027.jpg


Edit: And made available on makerworld


#315

PatrThom

PatrThom

If you made it more duck-billed, you could even promote it as a tool to release your prints from the bed.

--Patrick


#316

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

If you made it more duck-billed, you could even promote it as a tool to release your prints from the bed.

--Patrick
Yeah, but there's a million and one bed scrapers already on all the print sites.

edit:

Someone already has one. And it looks so similar to what I designed, it almost looks like I copied them lol


#317

GasBandit

GasBandit



#318

Far

Far

A wild Adam Savage appears!


#319

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Since I have a fully enclosed 3d printer, I figured I might as well give some more difficult materials a try.

PLA vs ABS, the hammer test :)



#320

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

The enclosure does nothing to keep harmful vapours and particulates away from you unless it's ventilated. As someone who has printed ABS and ASA before, make sure you have adequate ventilation as ABS produces a ton of nasty stuff when you print with it.


#321

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

The enclosure does nothing to keep harmful vapours and particulates away from you unless it's ventilated. As someone who has printed ABS and ASA before, make sure you have adequate ventilation as ABS produces a ton of nasty stuff when you print with it.
Yeah, the enclosure is mostly for keeping the chamber at the correct temp. But, my glowforge laser came with a super long exhaust hose. I repurposed that and routed it from the P1S case/exhaust fan out the nearby window.

Even so, the air in the room smelled vaugely like hot styrofoam, so I grabbed one of my covid-era N95 masks and mostly stayed out of there until the room had well ventilated. The printer enclosure is airtight, but I imagine most of the stuff got sucked out the fan and out the window.

(edit to correct a typo..."isn't airtight")


#322

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

The N95 will help with particulates but not VOC's. Sounds like you pretty much know what you're doing with the ventilation... just minimize your exposure (I'm a safety nerd).


#323

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Couple practical prints

1726091350173.png
1726091369684.jpeg


#324

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

So, the house I bought came with American Standard Champion toilets. The flush valve is *not* compatible with any of the "universal flush valve" replacements you can get at Walmart for cheap. And, it's got a huge non-standard freaking nut holding it into the tank.

I wanted to just replace the gasket of this leaking toilet, but I didn't have anything that I could use to get the nut off. So, I ended up buying a whole $30.00 branded replacement valve. But I have calipers, and, you know, fuck these guys for that shit.

1726097996325.png
1726098003139.png

1726098014902.png


once my print test succeeds, I'm putting this damn thing on all of the maker sites.


#325

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Printed a couple tests that were slightly off in size. I was using my caliper on the inner surfaces of the octagon on the wrench, but I don't think I was getting a good reading. After a couple fudges, I was frustrated.

So, I stopped to run to the store to give my brain a chance to chew on it. Got back, measured the flat surfaces of the nut octagon (instead of trying to measure the wrench itself), found a website that would take that wall-to-wall measurement and convert it to a vertex to vertex measurement, and I cut that value in half, and put *that* in fusion when designing the thing.

Like a glove...


Most maker sites require you to post a picture of the whole print, so that's churning out now. Screw you American Standard ;)


#326

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

like a glove




#327

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I'm such a dude.

I'm looking at some software called ZBrush..if I get good at it, i can make my own non-engineering style models to print. So I opened it up, knowing nothing about it, saw that they had a bunch of demo projects to get you started, one of which was a naked female, all barbie-style with no bits.

So, of course, I had to fiddle around to see if I could give her a slit and nips
1726166344102.png


#328

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Zbrush is good stuff. I like to sculpt in Blender for my organic models (I also suck hard at it).


#329

PatrThom

PatrThom

ZBrush is one of those things that's gonna make you want to spring for a haptic pen.



--Patrick


#330

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20240913_230037_sm.jpg


Vaporeon, with US nickel for scale.


#331

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

shelf brackets are so damn expensive, yo.

So, I had the wild idea to put a couple of shelves up in my booth at the local ren-faire next year. I thought I'd use my newly furnished workshop to cut some shelves, and just buy some shelf brackets from lowes or home depot or amazon. But at $7.00 to $50.00 each, screw that.

I can't print them in PLA...ABS is probably not the best since these will be experiencing a fair amount of UV. But since I've already tried ABS, TPU, and PETG in addition to PLA, why not give ASA a try? It's relatively inexpensive, and has good temperature and UV resistance. So much so, it's used for things like siding, garden furniture, and sports equipment.

1726437102060.png


I can print a pair of these for $2.50. Screw on some OSB that I have already in the workshop, and voila. Shelves on the cheap. And then I'd have a nifty place to store/display/market these goblets and mugs I've been making that I think will do great at a ren faire.

1726437276278.jpeg
1726437292567.jpeg


The room is closed off, ventilation is as per my ABS printing. And I'm pretty much staying out of the room for the next 6 hours.
Thankfully, my printer has a camera (albeit a pretty poor one) that lets me keep an eye on things from afar.
1726440822737.png


#332

PatrThom

PatrThom

No center brace?
bratheth.png

Otherwise I would expect the center of the arc to bow out once compressed by weight from above that tries to make your 90deg angle into 89. Then 88, 87, etc.

--Patrick


#333

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

No center brace?
View attachment 49459
Otherwise I would expect the center of the arc to bow out once compressed by weight from above that tries to make your 90deg angle into 89. Then 88, 87, etc.

--Patrick
I think it'll probably be sturdy enough to hold 3-4 pounds of plastic, and 3-4 pounds of particle board without all that happening. But time will tell.


#334

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Working on my design skills some more. My girlfriend has asked for a cutesy cloud shelf, but she wanted it as an 'invisible' shelf. I wanted it easy to assemble, so I decided on making a cleat that you screw into the wall, and the shelf just hangs on it, like the mushroom shelves I posted last page.

But since this wasn't something I just pulled off a maker site, I had to engineer that stuff myself in Fusion.

First step: design a cutesy cloud shelf:
1726773108117.png


Second step: Steal the cleat design from the mushroom shelves. Since it's a purely functional design, there are no copyrightable elements in the cleat itself. This is easier said than done: Fusion makes it a big PITA to work from .STL files. You have to pull it in as a mesh, clean up any mesh flaws, of which there are usually many: Converting from a solid in software like blender or fusion to a mesh of triangles and then back into a parametric solid introduces all kinds of problems. One analogy I've read is it's like smashing a mirror and reassembling the pieces and expecting it to work/look like the original. But I've done it enough that I can do pretty well with most things these days.

Third Step: Engineer a space in my cloud shelf to house the cleat, and perform negative extrusions to cut out the required spaces. Do a little chamfering to match the cleat angles
1726773824832.png


1726772961196.png

1726772986256.png


Once all the sectional analysis looked good, I printed a test fit: Just the cleat and the small bit of shelf it fit into.
20240919_142059.jpg


That test went well.

1726773018056.png


So the final step: Print! (profit?)
1726773218145.png


edit: it works :)
1726780851791.png


#335

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

more practical design/prints:

You can buy these workbench assembly kits online to make building workbenches super simple. But they're $45 each. Between that and wood costs, you might as well buy a pre-made bench!
1726974452659.png

Now, I've made 2x4 work benches before. In fact, there are 3 in my workshop right now. But I need 3 or 4 more for my booth at the local ren-faire, and without the kits, squaring everything all up takes more time than the rest of the bench combined. The kits make that part super simple. So, i bought *one*, got out my calipers, and went to work.

20240921_211116.jpg
20240921_211131.jpg


voila :) Now, I can print them at a cost of about $8.00 per workbench. Much better value.


#336

drifter

drifter

So is the point to be able to break down the table for transport? I think making some folding sawhorses with notches for crossbeams would be quicker and easier, though it would be more upfront effort to build.


#337

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

The point is to just jam 2x4s into the braces, and screw them in, and you have a workbench without having to spend a lot of time fooling around with squaring stuff up if you don't use braces.



#338

PatrThom

PatrThom

But wouldn't making the blocks out of plastic mean they'd be...
and screw them in
...ah, ok. Nevermind.

--Patrick


#339

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

But wouldn't making the blocks out of plastic mean they'd be...

...ah, ok. Nevermind.

--Patrick
Once all the screws are in, the blocks are kind of useless. They're not a support mechanism. The #10 wood screws hold it all together. You could chip/melt/sand away the braces at that point and be fine. They're just there to line things up. These thing save me like 30-60 minutes when making a bench. Which is worth $8 or so. $45, not so much.


#340

figmentPez

figmentPez



#341

figmentPez

figmentPez

James Bruton buillt a motorized AT-AT model big enough to ride.



#342

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20241002_225938.jpg


#343

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Another macabre print
20241005_222911.jpg20241005_222902.jpg


#344

figmentPez

figmentPez



#345

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I was gonna print it...but it's hidden behind a patreon :(

But I found a similar one :)


#346

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I'm always a bit let down when I see an awesome practical print that I have absolutely no use for.
Cat-Cutter-GIF-1.gif




#347

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20241015_162825.jpg


That Ditto! Always being sneaky and trying to blend in.


#348

PatrThom

PatrThom

Or a horribly misshapen Kirby.
EDIT: Aww...:oops:

--Patrick


#349

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

ezgif-3-9350a8fb6a.gif


More punkins! It's that time of year :)


#350

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Spent about 10 minutes with AI, and then about 40 hours in Blender and Fusion to make this. But it's my first non-practical design :D

20241018_010639_sm.jpg
20241018_010623_sm.jpg


#351

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Someone uploaded a monkey's fist jig to one of the maker sites. It so happens I've wanted to learn to make these, so I printed it. I didn't have any paracord, but I did have leather..

20241020_231846.jpg
20241021_215033.jpg


#352

PatrThom

PatrThom

Only six more to go!
Speaking of which, how frequently would you say you get requests for, er, anatomical models?

--Patrick


#353

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Only six more to go!
Speaking of which, how frequently would you say you get requests for, er, anatomical models?

--Patrick
Not very often, though I would certainly do them if someone wanted one. I'm not prudish ;)


#354

MindDetective

MindDetective

I'm kinda interested in having some of these printed for my son to use as art models: https://www.printables.com/model/981111-dummy-13-version-10

What would that run per unit, you think?


#355

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I'm kinda interested in having some of these printed for my son to use as art models: https://www.printables.com/model/981111-dummy-13-version-10

What would that run per unit, you think?
I've printed one of these before.
20240625_134201.jpg
20240625_134618.jpg

It's a challenging print. It had failures 2-3 times before I got all of the parts required for assembly. It's also a challenging assembly. Because it's small, the parts are fragile (even printing parts in petg as suggested). There's a makerworld version by the same designer, which i'd prefer to use:
Simply because it's already in the ecosystem of my printer and the designer has provided files with the settings they believe will work best, so there's less experimentation.

I am happy to print this, but I'd like to make these suggestions: Print 25% bigger. That will make the pieces stronger with less likelihood of failure when printing. Do not print anything in silk (shiny) material, as it's weaker and more likely to break. And let me send you the version the designer has provided on runners:
1729654675402.png

Again, more likely to successfully print, and less likely parts would get lost in the mail. You'd cut them off with some side cutters at assembly time. I can print them in PETG (for strength) and I have the following colors available in that material: Black, Red, Purple, Pink

At those sizes, I'd have to charge $15/per figure ($10 at the original size), with the caveat and disclaimer that all assembly is your responsibility, and that I won't replace any broken parts for free.


#356

MindDetective

MindDetective

I've printed one of these before.
View attachment 49734 View attachment 49735
It's a challenging print. It had failures 2-3 times before I got all of the parts required for assembly. It's also a challenging assembly. Because it's small, the parts are fragile (even printing parts in petg as suggested). There's a makerworld version by the same designer, which i'd prefer to use:
Simply because it's already in the ecosystem of my printer and the designer has provided files with the settings they believe will work best, so there's less experimentation.

I am happy to print this, but I'd like to make these suggestions: Print 25% bigger. That will make the pieces stronger with less likelihood of failure when printing. Do not print anything in silk (shiny) material, as it's weaker and more likely to break. And let me send you the version the designer has provided on runners:
View attachment 49736
Again, more likely to successfully print, and less likely parts would get lost in the mail. You'd cut them off with some side cutters at assembly time. I can print them in PETG (for strength) and I have the following colors available in that material: Black, Red, Purple, Pink

At those sizes, I'd have to charge $15/per figure ($10 at the original size), with the caveat and disclaimer that all assembly is your responsibility, and that I won't replace any broken parts for free.
Thanks, I'll think about it!


#357

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

friend of mine moved into a rental house. There was a place for a hand towel ring, but no ring in it.

Have calipers, will travel...

1729693125829.png


(Made in the size requested)


#358

GasBandit

GasBandit

You wouldn't DOWNLOAD A WAIFU



#359

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

friend of mine moved into a rental house. There was a place for a hand towel ring, but no ring in it.

Have calipers, will travel...

View attachment 49738

(Made in the size requested)
She decided her requested size was too small, so I made it bigger.
1729879638224.png


#360

PatrThom

PatrThom

You wouldn't DOWNLOAD A WAIFU
Not all at once, I wouldn't.

--Patrick


#361

MindDetective

MindDetective

Not all at once, I wouldn't.

--Patrick
I think we would need a massive parallel internet connection to download anything all at once.


#362

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I'm a mediocre woodworker at best.
But I can 3d print a curio :)

1730135819970.png


#363

GasBandit

GasBandit

Butts



#364

GasBandit

GasBandit




#365

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

When pasttimes collide...went to a convention this last weekend. Got an unusual request for a 3d print.
20241028_110234.jpg
20241028_110228.jpg


#366

PatrThom

PatrThom

For all your Houyhnhnm cosplay needs.

--Patrick


#367

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Walmart has these plastic ornament hooks for like $9.00. That's insane.
A few minutes in Fusion, and I have some for about a penny a hook.

hook.png
20241103_200811.jpg
20241103_185835.jpg


#368

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

My Revo Panda fast-change high-flow nozzles arrived today. Took me the standard several minutes to swap out the hot end body for the Biqu bambu clone that accepts the revo. But once that was done, it took me all of about 10 seconds to swap nozzles from the .4 default to a .6.

Running a max flow calibration.
1730775466960.png


For those unfamiliar with this test, it tests the max flow rate your filament and nozzle can do. Every mm in height, it increases the flow rate of filament out of the nozzle. When you start seeing defects, you measure the height where they start, and that's a good max flow rate.

More flow means faster printing, basically.

Bambu presets for generic filaments is 12mm3/s.
1730775446353.png


I started this test at 15. I haven't measured yet, but it looks like the defects started at about 30 mm3/s. Sweet.

edit: Just measured. 31mm3/s for the 0.60mm high flow hot end.

Attachments



#369

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20241031_214527.jpg


It's been a good run..4 or 5 years with this beard trimmer. I guess I can buy another set of guards for $7-10...or just another trimmer for $24...

...if I didn't own a 3d printer ;)

photo_2024-10-31_23-48-54.jpg


#370

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20241108_121733.jpg


#371

figmentPez

figmentPez

Attempting to 3D print in chocolate at home:


If you're not familiar with Ann Reardon, she's usually known for doing recipe videos, how to rescue cake disasters, and debunking viral food videos. This time she's attempting to modify a 3D printer so that it can print chocolate.


#372

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Attempting to 3D print in chocolate at home:


If you're not familiar with Ann Reardon, she's usually known for doing recipe videos, how to rescue cake disasters, and debunking viral food videos. This time she's attempting to modify a 3D printer so that it can print chocolate.
I just watched that video an hour ago or so :D


#373

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

practical print: Fixing a toilet with a bit of time and effort and 27 cents worth of rubberized filament, rather than spending $7-30 at the store. I was afraid I'd need something softer than 95A TPU, but so far the toilet has been leak free for 48 hours. The gasket is pink, because that's the filament I had left over from making my g/f those crocs a while back :)

20241111_143610.jpg


#374

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20241115_183114.jpg


Venom as a horse, like in the trailer for the new movie :)


#375

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

my big brown filament order came in. Printing a much bigger cabinet. Each of those plates represents a minimum of 8 hours (and sometimes as many as 14) of printing, and the whole thing is about 6 rolls of filament.

1731898228224.png
1731898240514.png
1731898313217.png


(don't beat me up for having some of the front trim on upside down. I put it together in a hurry because I was excited for a pic. Those are snap-on pieces and I've already rearranged them)


#376

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

IMG_20241121_170803_615.jpg


printing one more to go in the middle.


And something cute: strawberries, whipped cream and waffle themed tic tac toe
1732337551183.jpeg


#377

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Last curio is on the printers. This one will take approx 10 days of printing. Between the color changes and specialty filaments, it's gonna run $200 cost to print. Far more expensive than the others lol. But I hope it's worth it. I put the first crown molding piece on thursday and it just came off.

Cyberpunk themed, using Polylite "steel grey" as the base material. I like the striations in the color which I think give it some visual appeal
1732386053218.png


#378

PatrThom

PatrThom

It looks neat and all, but...what is it?

--Patrick


#379

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

It looks neat and all, but...what is it?

--Patrick
top left corner molding of a curio in cyberpunk style.
This piece
1732393027556.png


#380

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

ice cream checkers! You can double-up on the scoops or add a cute cone to represent the kings. The ice cream sandwich board doubles as a storage box

1732545178593.jpeg


#381

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

20241126_111830.jpg


I'm having a little x-mas get together at my place, so I'm continuing on with the cute little games for the youngsters. Hot cocoa tic tac toe


#382

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Lot's of people have asked me about dragon eggs...unfortunately, most designs take more material to print than the dragons that are supposed to go in them.

I finally found a model that doesn't, and in includes a fun spin-to-close design.

20241129_095928.jpg


#383

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

more xmas stuff for around the house :)


#384

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Final curio cabinet done! This one took the better part of two weeks to finish because I had to print most of the parts for it on my printer that'd do 7 colors. 12 plates, and many of those took like 30+ hours to complete
20241203_121236.jpg


#385

Frank

Frank

I just bought a Saturn 3 Ultra from Elegoo because it was like 300 Canadian at a store in town.

Now I need to clear space...and buy a fuuuuuckload of other stuff.

Things to do:
1. Make an enclosure and run a hose to the basement window.
2. Get a curing station
3. Probaby need resin at some point.
4. gloves.
5. Shit to put under everything so the table is easy to clean
6. Need a heater too, basement is not warm.

I'm practising with blender, so hopefully I can get good enough to model my own little duders.

I'm hoping the ABS water washable resin works for what I want it too, avoiding dealing with gallons of pure isopropyl or methlynated spirits sounds awful.

When I got home with the thing, I started getting bombarded by videos showing how to make fine looking minis on an FDM printer and now I'm a little peeved I bought a non-refundable gargantuan resin printer. BUT CE LA VIE. It was cheap AF.


#386

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

If you decide you want to give FDM a go, I highly suggest the bambulab a1 mini as an inexpensive starter. It's a pretty awesome machine


#387

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

Frank you are going to love the results you can get with that printer.

You can not even come close with an FDM... you will see. I have experience with both types. Especially for miniatures and tiny tiny details... it's not even a contest.


#388

Frank

Frank

I know that an FDM can't match the detail of a resin printer but they also aren't nearly as poisonous.


#389

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Warrior Otter lol

20241204_174156.jpg


#390

Frank

Frank

If you decide you want to give FDM a go, I highly suggest the bambulab a1 mini as an inexpensive starter. It's a pretty awesome machine
So I was looking at Bambulab stuff and then I got curious if I bought the whole 16 color system along with a p1S and the hub AND 16 colours (or as close as I could get in one material, they were half sold out of ABS.

1733357987664.png


Maybe one day, ha ha ha.

The A1 looks neat.


#391

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

So I was looking at Bambulab stuff and then I got curious if I bought the whole 16 color system along with a p1S and the hub AND 16 colours (or as close as I could get in one material, they were half sold out of ABS.

View attachment 50134

Maybe one day, ha ha ha.

The A1 looks neat.
lol, it's worse than you think. You're shy one AMS system in your cart.
Honestly, one AMS works fine for almost all my printing. I have one system with 2 AMS units, but I only rarely go above 4 colors. I've never gone above 7. 12 or 16 seems insane to me, with the purge costs and all. I'd probably never make something with that many color changes that's for commercial sale--probably only some expensive item/trinket for myself.


#392

Frank

Frank

lol, it's worse than you think. You're shy one AMS system in your cart.
Honestly, one AMS works fine for almost all my printing. I have one system with 2 AMS units, but I only rarely go above 4 colors. I've never gone above 7. 12 or 16 seems insane to me, with the purge costs and all. I'd probably never make something with that many color changes that's for commercial sale--probably only some expensive item/trinket for myself.
The printer has one in a combo.

It was just an experiment. I like painting stuff.


#393

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

oh yeah, I see you selected the combo..my bad :)
1733380132525.png


A1 minis are on sale (without the ams) for a crazy price. I think i paid $1500 for my first p1s+ams. That's like 8 a1 minis at this price. Of course, p1s's are way down, too


#394

Frank

Frank

Well, my big resin goil has arrived. Nothing else has but I have the base printer.

PXL_20241210_022115121.MP.jpg


#395

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Few weeks ago, got me a hepa air purifier that I found recommended on the NYT "7 best air purifiers for 2024" for $100.
I need to do some ASA printing for some stuff to go in my ren-faire booth that can weather the Texas heat and UV.
Cranked the filter up to max, and walked away. I just stepped in the room and didn't smell a thing (unlike when I was printing prior and venting out the window and there was still a faint ASA smell in the air).

I'm still staying out of there for the most part while it runs, but I feel better about the whole thing.

The thing I'm printing? Torches for the booth
1733948336658.png


#396

Frank

Frank

I'm so stoked to start printing stuff (I downloaded 200 gigs of Warhammer models....ALL Warhammer models and different proxies and alternate models). I'm waiting for the heater to show up (and the wash station). I also need to figure out a venting solution for the basement since I would just print in the shed, but it's the north in December and it's already going to be a task to print in my 15 degree basement. Definitely going water washable even though it's not quite as durable as the normal ABS-like resin, it avoids the awful, awful alcohol wash step.


#397

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I'm so stoked to start printing stuff (I downloaded 200 gigs of Warhammer models....ALL Warhammer models and different proxies and alternate models). I'm waiting for the heater to show up (and the wash station). I also need to figure out a venting solution for the basement since I would just print in the shed, but it's the north in December and it's already going to be a task to print in my 15 degree basement. Definitely going water washable even though it's not quite as durable as the normal ABS-like resin, it avoids the awful, awful alcohol wash step.
looking forward to seeing your stuff!


#398

Frank

Frank

I watched a video where a guy talks about not building a huge STL pile of shame (similar to the pile of shame grey plastic sprues Warhammer folks build) by subscribing to too many Patreons and buying tons of models ahead of time.

lol as I'm watching a 216 gig STL torrent download. I am who I am and who I am is a dirty internet pirate (who has zero intention of selling models, I just want them for meeeeeeeeeeeeeeee).


#399

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I only subscribe to a couple patreons...basically, if they have free models somewhere, I'll print one, and post it around. If it seems like a good seller based on people saying they want one, I'll subscribe and start selling it. Otherwise, it goes on a shelf and I move on. If I were printing just for me, I'd probably never pay a dime for models. It's like porn--there's so much good free stuff out there, you can print a lifetime and never run out of stuff


#400

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Printers have been idle for quite some time. I haven't vended much in the last few months (and the vending at the tail-end of summer was abysmal). So I'm doing random silly crap. Very NSFW
dick-o-saurus

20241211_150428.jpg
20241211_150345 - Copy.jpg


#401

Far

Far



#402

figmentPez

figmentPez



#403

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

It's like a third of a gram of filament. Less than a penny..how could i not?
(video coming soon lol)


#404

drifter

drifter

Few weeks ago, got me a hepa air purifier that I found recommended on the NYT "7 best air purifiers for 2024" for $100.
I need to do some ASA printing for some stuff to go in my ren-faire booth that can weather the Texas heat and UV.
Cranked the filter up to max, and walked away. I just stepped in the room and didn't smell a thing (unlike when I was printing prior and venting out the window and there was still a faint ASA smell in the air).

I'm still staying out of there for the most part while it runs, but I feel better about the whole thing.

The thing I'm printing? Torches for the booth
View attachment 50259
Too late since you already bought an air purifier, but in the future if you decide to upgrade I’d look at the air filtration systems that woodworkers use. They’re louder, but can cycle through way more air per unit of time.


#405

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Too late since you already bought an air purifier, but in the future if you decide to upgrade I’d look at the air filtration systems that woodworkers use. They’re louder, but can cycle through way more air per unit of time.
Since I have all of the printers stuffed in about 110 sqft of floor space, I figured this was sufficient :)
1734047257321.png


#406

drifter

drifter

Yeah, I'm just saying if you ever want to upgrade. Assuming those numbers are based off a 9ft ceiling, that thing is moving about 130CFM. A low end air filtration system can do about 400 for around $150-200. There's no kill like overkill :D

-edit-
Ah, though I forgot about the difference in filters. Not sure how much that would affect CFM to switch.


#407

Azurephoenix

Azurephoenix

If you really want to be safe with the fumes you need to exhaust to the outside. I put in an exhaust fan in my 3D printing/laser engraving room and when it's running full tilt there are next to no smells and all my air monitoring equipment shows no significant gains in VOC's and such.

For resin printing though, just use the water washable stuff. It off gasses no VOC's at all which is fantastic.

Be careful with that ASA filmament... it's supposed to let off really nasty vapours.


#408

figmentPez

figmentPez

Board games you can 3D print:



I thought the idea of games that fit in an Altoids tin is interesting, but I've never much cared for Connect 4 or Battleship.


#409

PatrThom

PatrThom

I've never much cared for Connect 4 or Battleship.
We'll see if you still feel that way when you're four hours into a ten-hour car trip.

--Patrick


#410

evilmike

evilmike

Board games you can 3D print:



I thought the idea of games that fit in an Altoids tin is interesting, but I've never much cared for Connect 4 or Battleship.
It's an interesting video, but I keep waiting for inevitable heel turn where the host reveals that he's working for Xur and the Kodan Armada.


#411

PatrThom

PatrThom

Saw this a week or two ago. Yet another problem solved by the amazing hobby that is 3D printing:

before.jpg

after.jpg
--Patrick


#412

figmentPez

figmentPez

We'll see if you still feel that way when you're four hours into a ten-hour car trip.
I'm absolutely certain I will still feel that way 5 minutes after breaking out those games when half the pieces have been lost in and under the car seats.

One of the better car games my family ever owned was a travel version of Pop-O-matic Trouble.

Pop O Matic Trouble travel version.JPG


Not a good sense of scale in this photo, but it's much larger than an Altoids tin. Like 3x larger. Still subject to losing pieces, but not nearly as easily, especially since pieces are all in sockets when they're not actively being moved.

Looks like Hasbro still makes a similar version, but got rid of that hideous red-orange color.

But all that doesn't really relate to 3D printing.


#413

Frank

Frank

If you really want to be safe with the fumes you need to exhaust to the outside. I put in an exhaust fan in my 3D printing/laser engraving room and when it's running full tilt there are next to no smells and all my air monitoring equipment shows no significant gains in VOC's and such.

For resin printing though, just use the water washable stuff. It off gasses no VOC's at all which is fantastic.

Be careful with that ASA filmament... it's supposed to let off really nasty vapours.
I'd read that even water washable, though it doesn't stink as much still gives off unhealthy amounts of VOCs. I'm new to this party so I would definitely take some educating.
I have my Saturn, sitting on my dining room table. Still waiting on: Resin, Mercury whatever the fuck v3 wash station + UV table combo, the USB plugin heater, the sack of sandpaper, the silicone mats, the sack of microfiber clothes, my 3m respirator and turbo particulate and organic vapour filters and my goggles.
Oh, and the dryer duct, 120 mm computer fan, plexiglass and an exhaust vent. Those too.

I'm almost there right? Right.


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