3d printing

Friend of mine has had an Ender 3d Pro printer for over a year, but for one reason or another, never got help building it. So she brought it here.
I've been interested in these things for a while, but it's always been "meh, it's one more hobby that I don't wanna sink money into" but now that it's here, i'm having fun with it
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She bought pink PLA with slightly non-standard temp ranges, so it took a couple tries to dial it in since default temps were failing.
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3D printing is something that would solve SO many of my day-to-day issues, but would not be worth it because it would be endless one-off project after one-off project, each one requiring a different filament or different head or etc or…

—Patrick
 
3D printing is something that would solve SO many of my day-to-day issues, but would not be worth it because it would be endless one-off project after one-off project, each one requiring a different filament or different head or etc or…

—Patrick
We have a Prusa Mk 3 filament printer and my husband uses it for making custom/prototype parts and the like all the time (everything from shelf spacers to race car parts). We just have the assortment of nozzles that came with the printer (and use the .4mm for the majority of prints) and spools of PLA & PET (depending on the project). Unless you're getting into some really crazy materials or want to print in multiple colors, you only need a few basics. He uses the free version of Fusion 360 to create objects.

I print miniatures and the filament printer kinda sucks for that. If all you want to do is print miniatures, resin is the way to go. We have a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k resin printer and an Anycubic Wash & Cure. Resin requires more work on the printing side, since you're dealing with resin (which can be stinky and should be handled with gloves since it can cause skin irritation) and it requires rinsing (with alcohol) and UV curing, but it requires much less work on the finishing side and the results are absolutely worth it. Filament miniatures will require a lot of finishing work and there is a high risk of breakage of the tiny arms/legs/weapons when you're prying them out of the supports. Resin miniatures essentially come out ready to paint, though the longer you let them cure, the better. After doing the intense curing with the UV light they're still a little soft, just letting them sit for a few days in sunlight will finish hardening them.

Star Wars Legion-scale miniatures (about 32 mm, 1:47 scale), filament & resin. I don't have any pics of the same model in each material, but these models were created by the same person so are very similar in design and detail.

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When Padmé came off the printer, she was completely encased by support material. I used clippers and dental picks to remove the supports. You can see a lot of filament bits and strings still on her that would need to be sanded or picked off. Her face is kind of blank and the gun is a mess because filament printers have trouble with fine details at this scale (0.25mm nozzle for this one).

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Resin only needs a few supports (they look like a few bits of scaffolding) that I just snipped off. Echo has sharper fine detail, which is what makes resin ideal for miniatures. He just needs a little touch-up sanding. (His prosthetic arm is missing because it was printed as a separate piece).

I printed a 6" Captain Rex figure in filament and it turned out fine (except I snapped off his viewfinder while removing the supports *cry*).

Before
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After (about 5 hours to clean him up)
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Oh, I’ve done 3D printing as part of my job before, but all that did was impress upon me how expensive it would be to have my own setup. Between initial cost and consumables, it would be more than I could keep up with right now.

—Patrick
 
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I'm just printing at "medium quality" and not fiddling with things to make them smoother or better. I'm just getting a feel for the machine and printing random stuff.

This was a life-size skull model that I scaled down to about an inch across.
 
If you haven't found it already, MatterHackers is a great source for filament (and pretty much anything else 3D printer related). We mostly use their MH brand PLA & PET and have had good experiences printing with it.
 
I've been using a coat rack as a cap holder, but as I've accumulated more caps, it's outlived its usefulness. There were a ton of options on thingiverse for wall-mounted cap holders, but most of them were for baseball caps. This one, however, seems to do nicely

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Dave

Staff member
So I was sitting here thinking tonight and I had an idea. I googled it to see if it was possible and it is. Right now the technology is pretty bad, but it's going to get better and better as people work on this.

3D printed albums.

 
So I was sitting here thinking tonight and I had an idea. I googled it to see if it was possible and it is. Right now the technology is pretty bad, but it's going to get better and better as people work on this.

3D printed albums.

That sounded much better than expected. It reminded me of when I tried to play an old shellac 78 on my 1980s record player.
 
I know people have been trying to do this for a while, but the printing technology hasn't advanced enough to print at actual size.
But what it really calls into question is how faithful does a copy have to be before a human can't tell the difference? How long until a 3D-printed record can pass a turntable test?

--Patrick
 
I wonder if an industrial SLS would sound significantly better.
I mean, it's totally impractical from a manufacturing standpoint...stamping vinyl would still be the faster and cheaper technology. But industrial SLS printers can have a layer thickness measured in microns...(Formlabs Fuse 1 prints at 110 microns, .004 inches, for instance).

Nevermind...he's using an Objet with a print thickness of 40ish microns. lol
 
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Dave

Staff member
Right but just think. Soon maybe we can take MP3 files and press them ourselves into "vinyl" that will add the pop & hiss. Sound wouldn't be as good but for record player peeps it would be interesting.
 
So, my own 3d printer arrived today (recall, the one I've been playing with has been my friend's).
Bambu P1S. Shown here next to the Ender 3 pro.
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This thing auto feeds, will allow you print multiple filaments/colors in a single print, and is *fast*. It came 99% assembled. That little green tugboat in the bottom right of the pic is "Benchy"...a benchmarking print to troubleshoot print problems.

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I printed Benchy in 19 minutes on the P1S..by comparison the Ender 3 Pro prints it in around 2 hours.
 

figmentPez

Staff member
That's a fine looking Benchy. No stringing, only a little bit of ringing.

Will you move on to more advanced tests like the torture toaster?
 
That's a fine looking Benchy. No stringing, only a little bit of ringing.

Will you move on to more advanced tests like the torture toaster?
Maybe some day...but at the moment, as long as I'm getting decent prints, I'm not gonna nerd out about it.

Decent prints like this 2-color bed scraper. Bambu sent a razor blade, 2 screws and stick-on magnets and a 3d file to print your own bed scraper and holder.

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If you want to print something cool to show off 3D printing, do a planetary gearset: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451 is one of many on Thingiverse.

It's print-in-place (no assembly required) and it blows people's minds. :D
That looks like just the kind of impractical wizardry that will blow my friends' minds when they ask me "but why do you need a 3d printer?" when all the practical things I'm already lining up won't impress. lol

Edit: and with Bambu Studio and the AMS system I have, I can print the gears in different colors :D
 
So far, in every print, the Bambu prints about 6 times as fast as the Ender.
Same pumpkin and witch hat--hat in sparkly PLA, and the pumpkin in random spool of orange they fortuitously sent me with the printer. (they send a random partial spool..they sent me partial spools of orange and green. Maybe because it's spooky season)

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Hey 3D Printer enthusiasts, I have been eyeing the Swingrail trainer as I am coaching 9 YOs in a competitive baseball team but it seems so simple that 30 bucks is hard to swallow. Is this a thing that could be easily assembled with, in part, 3D printing? I don't have a printer but I have a buddy.

Picture for reference and also to grab your attention:

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Everything can be "easily assembled" with a 3D printer.
The only real issues are going to be ones related to precision and to material properties, and that shape looks like one fated to immediately snap like a wishbone if printed with standard PLA. I suppose if you want to fab up a few dozen and have "Ah! It broke!" be the indicator of a poor swing, then ... sure? Otherwise you'd want something more durable, and then you're looking at either using the printer to make a sort of lost-wax model for casting, or else having them SLM/DMLS'd, which would be pricey.

--Patrick
 
So far, in every print, the Bambu prints about 6 times as fast as the Ender.
Same pumpkin and witch hat--hat in sparkly PLA, and the pumpkin in random spool of orange they fortuitously sent me with the printer. (they send a random partial spool..they sent me partial spools of orange and green. Maybe because it's spooky season)

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I love the sparkly black.

We got the multi-material upgrade for the Prusa a couple weeks ago, but haven't had time to install it yet. Maybe that needs to be moved up the priority list.
 
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Hey 3D Printer enthusiasts, I have been eyeing the Swingrail trainer as I am coaching 9 YOs in a competitive baseball team but it seems so simple that 30 bucks is hard to swallow. Is this a thing that could be easily assembled with, in part, 3D printing? I don't have a printer but I have a buddy.

Picture for reference and also to grab your attention:

View attachment 46315
That thing looks dangerous even in the molded plastic version, LOL! It's attached to elastic, yes? Most objects, I'd say "Yeah, go for it", but since it's under stress from the elastic and kids are the intended users, I say spend the $30 for the molded plastic that is less likely to snap and put their eye out.

From a design perspective, it's kind of complicated. It has the curved part that has to be fairly precise to fit snug to a bat, and then that thin T-intersection "wishbone" bit that's under stress. Besides the material issues @PatrThom mentioned, layer adhesion is a weak point in 3D printing and that intersection is a big weak point. It could potentially be redesigned to be stronger at the intersection when 3D printed, but that's going to take some work in CAD. This would only be worth it if you weren't happy with the design and wanted to customize it and cost wasn't the issue.
 
Another cool model to amaze your friends: a print-in-place articulated dragon. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/articulated-dragon-mcgybeer

I already have that one, an articulated snake, and an articulated axolotl in my 'to do' list :D
I'm waiting until I have cooler PLA to print them with.

Right now, I'm playing with Bambu Studio's ability to take a monochrome shape file and 'paint' colors on it to print multi-colored prints. I'd printed a set of coasters in pink (the only PLA my friend had with her printer), and I'm currently trying to print in blue/grey and green.
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As of this posting, it *just* started the green layer.
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and this new printer is so much faster....that coaster single was a 3.5 hour job on the old printer. After I saw success with the coaster, I printed 5 more and the holder last night..
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It's crazy how fast I went from "where can I buy this thing I need?" to "I wonder if I can print this thing I need."

Stackable filament storage made with 3d printed shelf walls and cheap EMT conduit from Lowes. (The last bit of the righthand wall is still on the printer for a few minutes yet)

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