Let us know when you print (and hand-finish!) your first tinwhistle.It's crazy how fast I went from "where can I buy this thing I need?" to "I wonder if I can print this thing I need."
—Patrick
Let us know when you print (and hand-finish!) your first tinwhistle.It's crazy how fast I went from "where can I buy this thing I need?" to "I wonder if I can print this thing I need."
I have 3d files for them already. I just am afraid FDM will lack the print dpi required for a good tinwhistle. Tiny tiny tiny variations can make a big difference in sound and tuning. Back when I was running that particular experiment, I was sending the files off to be printed SLSLet us know when you print (and hand-finish!) your first tinwhistle.
—Patrick
For anyone who is curious about how those look, and what the process is like:If I get cyan, magenta and yellow filaments, I can do full-color prints of these.
I am looking at various options for these nowI just want a pop-out sword:
I love the filament. We haven't tried gradient yet.This one failed a couple of times before I got all the settings dialed in. Dune Striker..fully articulated rock/dragon/scorpion thing.
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I dove right in with gradiant silk PLA...just started playing with PET-G day before yesterday. I like the feel of the finished items in pet-g...they feel less brittle, and the material properties (chemical resistance, strength etc) are amazing, but it doesn't make nearly as clean-looking finish.I love the filament. We haven't tried gradient yet.
I'd feel better about it if it was my own design. But it's not. And I also don't have much use for a low G whistle.THERE it is.
—Patrick
Airiness is an artifact of the microphone I'm using to record. It'd also be caused by the mouthpiece and not the whistle body--it's not evident at all in person except as a little complexity in the tone (which is a desirable trait). This is the whistle head I play in sessions all the time.Sounds a lot more airy than I think you'd really want, but I guess you can't beat the price!
(assuming you already had a head lying around)
--Patrick
I think I'm printing the only way possible on this printer without having to clean out a bunch of support material. Basically printing them standing up. If I print them on their side, the whole tube is a giant overhang, and rather than a little tree of material on the outside I can grow up to support the mouthpiece, the entire inside has to be supported.Next is to experiment with orientation.
Which direction of "grain" sounds the best?
--Patrick
I figured you were, I just didn't know if you'd endure the headache of the other orientations in order to see whether something like "60/45/30deg angle, holes up" made any difference to playability/sound/etc.I think I'm printing the only way possible on this printer without having to clean out a bunch of support material.