I have a notebook and an external HD.Do you have anything you can reuse? Either things you were planning to reuse, or components that will just "fill in" until you can replace them with something better?
(this would be things like using a regular HDD for the extra 6 months it would take you to finally save up to get a SSD, for instance)
--Patrick
Probably something upgradable.All right, my last question for now is: Do you play to upgrade this more in the future (i.e., will you save up to swap out a couple key parts in the next year or two)? Or do you want something complete that you can seal up and forget about until it's time to replace it with your next system?
--Patrick
You can get a pretty damn good gaming rig for $900
$90 - BOX Corsair Carbide 240
$140 - PSU Seasonic SS-750KM3
$120 - MLB MSI Z97M-G43
$240 - CPU Intel i5-4690K
$90 - RAM G.Skill Ares 2x4GB DDR3-1600 CAS 8-8-8-24
$80 - HDD Seagate ST1000DX001 1TB SSHD
$140 - OS Win7/8 x64 OEM
====
$900 - Total
(all prices sourced from Newegg, you might do better if you shop around)
Just couldn't fit the ROG board in there and still leave plenty of headroom (for things like a keyboard/mouse/cables/etc), although if you (i.e., @ThatNickGuy ) are comfortable slashing the surplus down to only $10, It would actually be the better choice. You can get one for about $210 over at Newegg, though that would add $90 bringing the total up to $990, drastically reducing what you would have available for "extras."If you want to be able to upgrade it then you wan to go heavy on the motherboard.
I thought about that after I put the list together, but hadn't checked. I assumed he'd speak up if it was a problem ("Hey this is a no-go because Canada, any idea?"). Most retailers have a Canadian presence.If anybody is actually wanting to help him, remember: CANADA.
See, now I'd do everything in my power to get a video card in there. Using on-board chipsets just won't do it and can't play shit.
I agree, and I really tried to cut some other corner that would get a better (i.e., independent) graphics card in there, and had a really nice build put together that had one, but then I realized I hadn't included the OS in my price list either and I was all GRAAAAHSTARTOVER. My choices then either boiled down to substituting a different CPU/MLB (Pentium G3258 and/or cheaper Z97 MLB if you're curious) to keep the budget low enough to include a discrete GPU, but that would mean having to break the system down to upgrade the CPU later (G3258 only has 2 cores, i5 has 4), which sounded annoying. I know that *I* would have no problem suffering with integrated video for a month or two until I could upgrade, but I know Nick's level of patience tends to vary from time to time.As usual, I forgot to figure the cost of the OS into the build
Only install games on the SSD you know you'll never uninstall, and will pay constantly. TF2 is a good one to do so with, though, it really helps the load times. Wait for a steam sale for Skyrim and you'll be able to pick it up really cheap.So I talked with my brother in law about it tonight. Showed him the specs for Arkham Knight and he thinks the system he can get me (for $800-$900) should not only hit the mark, but far surpass it. I didn't even know core processors were as high as i7, now. I told him the game is built essentially for the current generation systems, which he said is a joke compared to what PC systems are capable of. From what I've seen, I believe him.
He also suggested getting an SSD and installing Windows and games on that so that they run almost instantly. I can't recall what case he suggested, but he preferred something else over the Cosair. Something about its door breaking off often.
Anyway, looks like it's become a strong possibility I'm getting a new gaming rig for Christmas. I've already said to my folks that:
1) This would be all I'm getting for Christmas.
2) I'll pay for part of it.
3) It will also count for my birthday present for next May.
4) The past few years, my sister has just been giving me $100 cash. So instead, it can just go towards this.
So I'm probably looking to pay about $400 of this, myself.
In the meantime, I'll probably keep an eye on Humble Bundles for games to really test out this new system. I'm eyeing the current Bundle that has Saints Row IV, for example. I have Metro 2033 already in my library that's never been installed. Same for Payday. Looking forward to playing Civilization V, since this notebook can't run it. Ditto Rogue Legacy, which sadly runs very choppy on this. If I can get it super cheap, I might finally give Skyrim a run and try out some mods. Weird as it sounds, I want to replay through the Half-Life games and see what they look like on the highest settings. Same for TF2.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks, that's some good advice. I'm not one for big stompy robots, to be honest. And I've yet to try any MOBAs (don't even know what that stands for, honestly). Been thinking of getting back into some kind of an MMO, but none have really caught my interest. Though I've had a City of Heroes itch lately and DCUO might scratch it. Might give Champions a second try because I didn't mind the brief time I played that.Only install games on the SSD you know you'll never uninstall, and will pay constantly. TF2 is a good one to do so with, though, it really helps the load times. Wait for a steam sale for Skyrim and you'll be able to pick it up really cheap.
Meanwhile, I've got an extra copy of Torchlight 2 sitting in my gift inventory if you want it.
Also, there's lots of good free games you can try. War Thunder, for one. DC Universe Online isn't all that bad. You can also try DOTA 2 (or League of Legends, if you prefer that flavor, or even Smite) if you wanna see what all this MOBA nonsense is about, Path of Exile will definitely scratch any Diablo-RPG itch you've got. Planetside 2 is a pretty good free MMOFPS. Might also give Loadout a try (kinda similar to TF2 but with customized weaponry). If you like big stompy shooty robots, give Hawken or (wincing as I say this) Mechwarrior Online a try. All of those are free to play.
Thing is, I get really lost in all these technical details. Which is why I've been kind of silent with this thread. I honestly don't understand half the things you're talking about. But I know my brother in laws knows his stuff. He's a big tech guy, worked with computers most of his life, including building some of mine, and has a really great system himself right now.-If you're going to get a "pure" SSD as your main drive (rather than the SSHD or "fusion" setup), get at least a 240. You pay a heavy performance penalty for drives smaller than that. It has to do with how SSDs distribute the load across their flash chips, and < 240 drives don't use enough chips to fill all the channels.
-That Carbide 240 case only came out in August of 2014, so I wonder exactly how many reports of breaking doors there are out there. I could only find reports of the thumbscrews breaking. I wonder if he's confusing it with the Carbide 540, which looks almost the same in pictures but is a much larger case (and has been out since mid-2013).
-You didn't mention what power supply you were getting, but make sure it will be enough to comfortably power not only everything you are installing now, but also everything you are GOING to install, and make sure it has enough reserve capacity. For instance, if you need 550W total, make sure you get at least a 650W PSU, because PSUs lose power and efficiency as they age. A good rule of thumb is to total up everything you're ever going to need and then add 20-25% to account for this future sagging.
-i7's are nice, but you don't usually get enough extra fps out of them to really be worth the price premium over the i5's. I'm not saying to skip an i7, they do have hyperthreading and larger caches (which is basically what makes them an i7 instead of an i5), but the price difference can be drastic compared to the equivalent i5. Incidentally, Intel is not "up to" i7's right now, that's just their name for their top tier processors. It's the 4-digit number and single letter you want to pay attention to (3770k, 4650S or whatever) rather than the i-whatever.
Can't really make any other recommendations since you didn't say which CPU and MLB you'd be going with.
Regardless of how things go, please let us know your final system makeup, so we can all learn from your experiences.
--Patrick
I didn't know you weren't tech-savvy, sorry. I figured you would let me know when it started getting too technobabble-y for you.I honestly don't understand half the things you're talking about. But I know my brother in laws knows his stuff. He's a big tech guy, worked with computers most of his life, including building some of mine, and has a really great system himself right now.
Seems OK. I "feel" like it's possible to get a better deal, but I don't have specific knowledge.So here's what he just sent me @PatrThom. What do you think? Again, I'm kind of a luddite when it comes to most of this.
This doesn't include Windows 8, but he thinks he has a copy of 7 around somewhere. So feel free to talk stupid to me about it. Think "speedy thing goes in, speedy thing goes out."
http://pc.ncix.com/ncixpc/ncixpc.cfm?uuid=0F280B6E-EBAC-486D-A8CAE67706A843EE-6132039
That's one of the MLBs I was considering. I would take the step up to the 240GB SSD (for reasons I go into above) and the 500W power supply means you will only ever be able to use ONE graphics card, though if you are never going to add a second one then this should not be a problem.So feel free to talk stupid to me about it.
Depends on how important playing the "newest" games are to you. If so, you're looking at ~$200 every 2 or 3 years on a video card upgrade. If not, any of the builds discussed here will last you until it breaks. My last machine lasted me 7 years with no upgrades - only stopped using it when the video card finally gave up the ghost because there'd been a major architecture revision since I built 'er up so I needed a new motherboard, which meant I basically needed a new PC. Of course, the video card I had bought that lasted 7 years was $500 in 2007.... and now the card I'm using cost less than $200 and already outperforms it. C'est la PC gaming.If I CAN get one cheaper, all the better, but I'd like to get a good rig that will last me awhile before I need to upgrade again any time soon. That's the ideal, anyway. I don't know how realistic it is.
Well, my keystone game right now is Arkham Knight. But I WOULD like to be able to play some of the newest games in the future. $200 every 2-3 years sounds reasonable to me, honestly. Would it be just the video card I'd need to upgrade, for the most part?Depends on how important playing the "newest" games are to you. If so, you're looking at ~$200 every 2 or 3 years on a video card upgrade. If not, any of the builds discussed here will last you until it breaks. My last machine lasted me 7 years with no upgrades - only stopped using it when the video card finally gave up the ghost because there'd been a major architecture revision since I built 'er up so I needed a new motherboard, which meant I basically needed a new PC. Of course, the video card I had bought that lasted 7 years was $500 in 2007.... and now the card I'm using cost less than $200 and already outperforms it. C'est la PC gaming.
Usually. Maybe RAM down the road too, but probably only once, and that's really inexpensive. Oh, and if you suddenly turn into a torrent addict, you might end up buying external hard drives every 6 monthsWell, my keystone game right now is Arkham Knight. But I WOULD like to be able to play some of the newest games in the future. $200 every 2-3 years sounds reasonable to me, honestly. Would it be just the video card I'd need to upgrade, for the most part?
Heh, yeah, Mike was telling me about the difference between the recommended combined speed that Gaming Debate figured and the combined speed for the first system he suggested. It was a difference of 2800 or 4900 to 11,700. I knew PC still reigned supreme in terms of computing power, but cripes, I had no idea.[DOUBLEPOST=1416324438,1416324295][/DOUBLEPOST]Usually. Maybe RAM down the road too, but probably only once, and that's really inexpensive. Oh, and if you suddenly turn into a torrent addict, you might end up buying external hard drives every 6 months
And since Arkham Knight is developed for console, I doubt it'd be an issue. It's the PC exclusives that'll generally tax your rig. Aside from MMOs. Those also usually try to keep their requirements low so as to be accessible to as many people as possible. Heck, WoW 's still king of the MMO pile and you can play it with onboard video, on most laptops these days.
Oh god, I'm going to turn into the PC equivilent of Tim "The Toolman" Taylor, aren't I?If you can whittle the price down enough, you might look at seeing if you can fit a Nvidia Geforce GTX 970 into the build. It's a pricey card at around $350, and it might be overkill on the stuff you want to play, but it's a beast of a card at its pricepoint. And I speak from experience that once you enter the glorious PC Master Race, your attitude quickly changes from "I just want to be able to run games at decent settings" to "WHY CAN'T I TURN THIS UP TO STUPID-MAX? MORE POWAH!"
Yes, but with less cocaine.Oh god, I'm going to turn into the PC equivilent of Tim "The Toolman" Taylor, aren't I?
If you're not replacing your system every year, you're always going to be behind somehow. The trick is to look at the parts that are the hardest to replace/would require the most changes to replace and buy into the best you can for those. RAM and GPU are easy to replace, for instance. Adding extra USB ports is easy to do with a new card. Swapping CPU or MLB? Not as easy, since replacing one usually means replacing the other and often many other parts of your system as well.Oh god, I'm going to turn into the PC equivilent of Tim "The Toolman" Taylor, aren't I?
Is not about the size of your gaming rig, is how you use it!I have nothing to really contribute, I just wanted to say that I bought my gaming rig merely a year ago, but this thread is already making me feel really inadequate.
By playing Skyrim modded with all the skimpy female armors I can find!Is not about the size of your gaming rig, is how you use it!
Yes, provided it's got no dead pixels or other visible damage. I also prefer the 16:10 aspect ratio, would would bias me in favor of snagging that particular monitor. Its only drawback seems to be that it has no HDMI inputs, but that's not such a big deal really. Your video card will have DVI outputs which this monitor does have.Someone in my city is selling a Samsung Syncmaster 21.6bw monitor for $50.
Link:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-monitors/city-of-halifax/samsung-syncmaster-216bw/1034660897
Good deal for a monitor?
That's more or less the same machine I'm gaming on right now. A 270x is a decent video card.Okay, so Mike may have found me a pretty good Black Friday deal:
http://pc.ncix.com/ncixpc_new/ncixpc.cfm?uuid=2D2E2001-819C-4A83-AD1D1B02A439A4C5-6165821
It's an AMD processor instead of Intel, but from a little bit of googling, it sounds like there's not a huge different in performance.
The only thing I might upgrade here is the power supply. Default is 500W, but go up to the 750W gold for $67.
I only understood like 10% of that.
So...in other words, what I got was a pretty good choice?
- Right now games only do one or two things at a time.
- This means games play best on CPUs that are fastest at doing one or two things at a time.
- Intel's (consumer) CPUs are the best at doing up to 4 things at a time.
- Therefore, Intel CPUs are the best for games right now.
--Patrick
- AMD CPUs aren't as fast at doing only 1-2 things.
- Intel chips can do > 5 things at once, but they have to "cheat" their 4 cores to do it (via Hyperthreading).
- Hyperthreading is not as efficient/powerful as having > 4 real cores present on the CPU.
- AMD will sell you CPUs with 6 or 8 actual cores for less $$$ than Intel's 2- or 4-core "fake-it-with-Hyperthreading" CPUs.
- Therefore, AMD is the best choice for video/multitasking/rendering.
- Also since the integrated video card in AMD chips usually stomps Intel, you usually don't even need a GPU (for simple games)
It's about 2/3 as fast at gaming as the CPU I recommended above, but it costs around 60% less and should be right about on par when it comes to things like watching Netflix/Hulu, or surfing the Web, or anything else where it can spread the work around to all of its 6 cores.So...in other words, what I got was a pretty good choice?
Honestly, what I have now is a notebook (netbook? I don't even know the proper term; it's a tiny laptop), which barely runs even Rogue Legacy on low settings.It's about 2/3 as fast at gaming as the CPU I recommended above, but it costs around 60% less and should be right about on par when it comes to things like watching Netflix/Hulu, or surfing the Web, or anything else where it can spread the work around to all of its 6 cores.
Also, it's still going to be a noticeable step up from anything you have now, assuming what you have now more than 3 years old.
--Patrick
Star citizen isn't out yet, it's still VERY in development. That said, it's the most talked-about upcoming PC game on earth right now, so if it were me, I'd use that as one of my choices. If you don't have Saints Row 4, grab it, but make sure you get and play Saints Row 3 first if you haven't already. For the third game, yes, Just Cause 2 is dirt cheap on steam. If you haven't played Deus Ex, GET THAT. It's an excellent sci-fi RPG with a great story. If you've already done Deus Ex, the Supreme Commander Gold Edition combo pack is a great way to snag HANDS DOWN THE BEST RTS GAME EVER MADE. Tomb Raider wasn't my thing, but other people like it. Stay away from Sleeping dogs. I dunno anything about Alien Isolation. I was disappointed in Hitman: Absolution. Don't get the Thief remake, either.I should also add that I took advantage of a Black Friday sale today and got this:
http://www.staples.ca/en/Samsung-LS27D360HS-ZC-27-inch-LED-Monitor/product_1021362_2-CA_1_20001
Oh yeah. The gaming. It's coming. Especially since buying through AMD, I also get Steam codes for three free games. Any three from this list. The guy I spoke with on the phone that helped me with my ordered strongly recommended Alien Isolation and Star Citizen. Thoughts?
http://sites.amd.com/us/promo/never-settle/Pages/never-settle.aspx
Personally I've narrowed down the possibilities to Tomb Raider, Saints Row IV, Alien Isolation, Star Citizen, and Sleeping Dogs. I would say Just Cause 2, but that'll be super dirt cheap on Steam, I'm sure.
It'll be fine.But it'll still run the games I want, right? Not to repeat myself, but Arkham Knight when it comes out?
Played and beat SR3 on PS3, so yup, that's still a strong possibility. I've honestly yet to play Alan Wake and that might go on the consideration list.Star Citizen
Saints Row 4 (but get and play SR3 first)
Deus Ex: Human Revolution
Supreme Commander Gold Edition
That system meets or (more often) exceeds the recommended requirements for the game.But it'll still run the games I want, right? Not to repeat myself, but Arkham Knight when it comes out?
It makes me wish I didn't already own 3 and 4 so I could buy them again.Welp, Tomb Raider is crossed off my options for that 3 free games choices. I nabbed it on GreenManGaming for $5.93. Also got Arkham Origins for $3.99, which is about the price I was willing to pay for that. Strongly thinking of getting the Saints Row complete package that's at Humble Bumble right now for $13.
Well, I mean...you could buy them FOR me, just to have that feeling of buying them again.It makes me wish I didn't already own 3 and 4 so I could buy them again.
Welcome back to PC gaming
Everybody lapses from time to time. I paid full price for Stick of Truth, and don't regret doing so.Wellllll...except for maybe Arkham Knight. Because I can't wait to play that.
When buying for console, I had a mostly firm rule about not spending more than $20. Which in recent years, I've only broken three times: Bioshock Infinite (used, but no regrets), GTA V (on release day, no regrets), and Amazing Spider-Man (oh, holy hell, loads of regrets). Traded them all back in for credit after beating each.Everybody lapses from time to time. I paid full price for Stick of Truth, and don't regret doing so.
I use a wired 360 controller that I bought used for cheap years ago and is still going strong.Speaking of which, what do you guys recommend for a controller? I almost bought the Windows compatible Xbox One controller today. I hear those are generally best for PC gaming. Any other suggestions?
The One controller is the best for the PC, hands down. I can't even use my wireless 360 controller anymore since getting one despite it being wired.Speaking of which, what do you guys recommend for a controller? I almost bought the Windows compatible Xbox One controller today. I hear those are generally best for PC gaming. Any other suggestions?
Start browsing for comfy headsets. As you live in close proximity with your folks, you're going to need the ability to play sound at a volume you like without disturbing them, and as you get more into multiplayer, the mic will become very important.Speaking of which, what do you guys recommend for a controller? I almost bought the Windows compatible Xbox One controller today. I hear those are generally best for PC gaming. Any other suggestions?
I use these: Amazon productStart browsing for comfy headsets. As you live in close proximity with your folks, you're going to need the ability to play sound at a volume you like without disturbing them, and as you get more into multiplayer, the mic will become very important.
People still pay monthly for AOL. It's not much of a stretch from there.People still buy CDs?!
It's just the regular model that comes with a USB cable to plug it in with Windows added to the box.I actually have a decent headset already. Just an inexpensive Logitech. Nothing fancy. Maybe when my tax return comes in next year, I'll shell out more money for a good one.
Think I might break down and get an Xbox One controller soon. Apparently, there's a model specifically for Windows?
I'm hoping they come out with a wireless adapter for Windows by the time I wear my current 360 controller out. I really like being cordless.It's just the regular model that comes with a USB cable to plug it in with Windows added to the box.