With ever-increasing frequency of "periodic."I'd bet money that this was the root cause of your problem. Probably kept the flapper from making a good seal, which let water slowly leak out, necessitating a periodic refill.
With ever-increasing frequency of "periodic."I'd bet money that this was the root cause of your problem. Probably kept the flapper from making a good seal, which let water slowly leak out, necessitating a periodic refill.
Bathroom remodels are expensive - and have a nasty habit of holding hidden expenses in reserve just to make things worse. But I can't think of anything I'd like more than to redo our bathrooms so I could put in a good sized tub, and a nice new shower.Home ownership adventures:
When we had the house built, my wife wanted a "premium" shower. It is real tile (not acrylic), with a bench where you can sit and shave your legs.
She never uses the bench. And friends have told us that those kinds of setup tend to leak. Well, we've got a leak. After more than a year of re-caulking, re-grouting, putting waterproof silicone, etc, we've just decided to bite the bullet and remodel the bathroom. We're gonna pull all that stuff out and have it redone.
Since we have a hard water problem up here, we're going to install a water softener about the time the bathroom is completed, so that we can keep the new shower looking as nice as possible.
Goodbye, yearly bonus.
This product line has never failed on me, though I've never exceeded 50% of the anchor's rating:Is there a decent brand of drywall anchor out there, or am I pretty much going to be limited to toggle bolts for drywall and mounting everything else to a stud? All I wanted to do was hang a couple brackets to hold up the closet rod that broke off of its end-cap a couple weeks ago, but noooooooooo. I can hang the bracket just fine, but the screws that came with these anchors don't actually cause them to burst open enough to anchor, so even just the weight of the wooden bar causes the brackets to pull back off the wall - screw, anchor, and all.
The range hood will handle cooking residue, this is just for dust/dander/smoke.Depends. Do want it solely for particulate removal (smoke, dander, dust)? Or does it have to also remove oil?
In other words, just how much cooking/frying/baking do you plan to do, and is that part of what needs to be filtered?
--Patrick
Eh, it's not the smoke that I'm really concerned about so much as it is the dust. Dusting weekly almost keeps up with it. Almost. Though, realistically, what I should be looking at is a whole home HVAC replacement/upgrade with the installation of a heat pump and an A/C system. But that's for the long term and this is for the (preferably) short term.Well you are going to be rather disappointed. Even the highest-quality air filters (ULPA-rated, even more stringent than HEPA) are only rated for particles down to 0.03micron, but smoke goes all the way down to 0.01micron.
So if you're willing to just settle for "good enough," that'll probably mean getting something HEPA or Semi-HEPA, and that means spending 150-200ish dollars* for something that'll clean about 400-500ft^2, plus the cost of the filters as they need replacing.
That's what I found from about 15min worth of searching.
--Patrick
*Based on a quick check of Home Depot pricing.
My understanding is that yes, it is the same ducts. But it will still cost a few thousand dollars and take a couple days. That's still cheaper and easier than having to install ducts, though.A question for me as I house hunt.
I would like my house to have central air, but if I find a house that doesn't have it, it's not a significant project to get it added if the house currently uses forced air heating, right? It'd just be the exact same ducts?
Forced air heating fills rooms with warm air via vents located near the ceiling and returns the colder air that drains from the room via cold air returns located somewhere along the bottom. You can piggyback A/C onto this delivery system, but then it will be less efficient because you will dumping cold air from up high where it will just drain right back out the bottom vents again. To do it right there would have to be some way to reverse thatIt'd just be the exact same ducts?
Have you tried reconfiguring the main power coupling?reverse thatpolarity
Like putting too much air into a balloon!To do it right there would have to be some way to reverse thatpolarity
Not yet, but I did already try sounding the alertness horn and decalcifying the calcium ducts.Have you tried reconfiguring the main power coupling?
"Oh sweet winter child, what do you know of heat?"Keep in mind that if he's buying a house in WNY, they consider 90 to be unbearably hot in the summer.
A good question to ask is what else goes off when you turn on the vacuum?Any idea what could be causing this, outside of needing to call a professional?