3d printing

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Dulcimer player at the local Renaissance Festival asked me if I could replicate a dulcimer hammer she had. I don't know anything about dulcimers, so these could suck big time. But they look alright.

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PatrThom

PatrThom

Even if you get the profile right, it's more about the balance/weight distribution, a bit like a tiny khopesh.
From observation--the finger holds near the neutral (balance) point with just a shade more weight towards the front. The head should be light enough to swing/move quickly via wrist motion, but have its weight loaded vertically (thin and tall) so that striking can be exact yet bring the full weight of the head to bear in a precise vertical profile. The back end should be beefy enough to allow the fingers holding it sufficient control to "soak up" any undesired rebound or sideways deviation, but still allow enough rebound to jump high enough off the string to head towards the next one(s).

--Patrick
 
Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I was talking about this same thing elsewhere and said something along the lines that "I'm sure dulcimer players geek out about their hammers the same way whistlers geek out about their whistles. thickness, weight, balance, striking area, etc etc etc. But since I don't have years of experience to inform my efforts, I'm just gonna use my eyes and calipers and if they don't like 'em, I warned them in advance that I didn't know what I was doing and PLA doesn't have the same weight as wood"
 
PatrThom

PatrThom

Hey all it makes me think about is whether it is possible to make hammers with ridiculous geometry, or make a dead blow version, or ones that "break" like a torque wrench when struck, or come with accelerometers and RGB, or silliness like that.

--Patrick
 
Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

So, the dulcimer player said that the hammers were perfectly serviceable. They weren't her favorite, but the one she gave me to model them after weren't her favorite either, so I dunno what she was expecting :)

Also: I can wholly recommend the BambuLab P1S as a workhorse printer. 10 minutes ago, I lost power for less than a minute. I have print jobs going on 3 different printers.

Power came back on, printers rebooted, and I just hit "resume" on each of the printers and off they went, picking right up where they left off.
 
figmentPez

figmentPez

Staff member
CNC Kitchen covers highlights from RMRRF 2024 (Rocky Mountain RepRap Festival)

This first video includes a toolless quick change hotend, HueForge software for art prints, and 3D prints that were left outside for 7 years.

 
Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

I've been fiddling with Hueforge for a little while. But it's not something that's really in my niche, so I've only used it to make friend/family gifts.

But I did make a big purchase today. Guess who has two thumbs and a laser now ;)

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Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

PatrThom said:
I figured you were, I just didn't know if you'd endure the headache of the other orientations in order to see whether something like "60/45/30deg angle, holes up" made any difference to playability/sound/etc.

--Patrick
Click to expand...
So, I had a crazy thought and did an experiment. As it turns out....printing these things completely upside down like this:
1715908095753.png


means I only have to pop off the supports, which pop off cleanly, and it's immediately playable without me having to tweak a god damned thing!

Also, I have learned that if I put masking tape over my whistles before I laser them, not only are the edges of the letters cleaner but also the tape then acts as a stencil, which allows me to then dab a little paint over the entire thing without having to be too precise...peel the tape off, and voila! the maker's mark looks so much better.

1715908211103.png
 
GasBandit

GasBandit

Staff member
Tinwhistler said:
So, I had a crazy thought and did an experiment. As it turns out....printing these things completely upside down like this:
View attachment 48165

means I only have to pop off the supports, which pop off cleanly, and it's immediately playable without me having to tweak a god damned thing!

Also, I have learned that if I put masking tape over my whistles before I laser them, not only are the edges of the letters cleaner but also the tape then acts as a stencil, which allows me to then dab a little paint over the entire thing without having to be too precise...peel the tape off, and voila! the maker's mark looks so much better.

View attachment 48166
Click to expand...
You forgot the L in front of the MW, you lecherous man whore.
 
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