3d printing

Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

Someone uploaded a monkey's fist jig to one of the maker sites. It so happens I've wanted to learn to make these, so I printed it. I didn't have any paracord, but I did have leather..

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PatrThom

PatrThom

Only six more to go!
Speaking of which, how frequently would you say you get requests for, er, anatomical models?

--Patrick
 
Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

MindDetective said:
I'm kinda interested in having some of these printed for my son to use as art models: https://www.printables.com/model/981111-dummy-13-version-10

What would that run per unit, you think?
Click to expand...
I've printed one of these before.
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It's a challenging print. It had failures 2-3 times before I got all of the parts required for assembly. It's also a challenging assembly. Because it's small, the parts are fragile (even printing parts in petg as suggested). There's a makerworld version by the same designer, which i'd prefer to use:
Simply because it's already in the ecosystem of my printer and the designer has provided files with the settings they believe will work best, so there's less experimentation.

I am happy to print this, but I'd like to make these suggestions: Print 25% bigger. That will make the pieces stronger with less likelihood of failure when printing. Do not print anything in silk (shiny) material, as it's weaker and more likely to break. And let me send you the version the designer has provided on runners:
1729654675402.png

Again, more likely to successfully print, and less likely parts would get lost in the mail. You'd cut them off with some side cutters at assembly time. I can print them in PETG (for strength) and I have the following colors available in that material: Black, Red, Purple, Pink

At those sizes, I'd have to charge $15/per figure ($10 at the original size), with the caveat and disclaimer that all assembly is your responsibility, and that I won't replace any broken parts for free.
 
MindDetective

MindDetective

Tinwhistler said:
I've printed one of these before.
View attachment 49734 View attachment 49735
It's a challenging print. It had failures 2-3 times before I got all of the parts required for assembly. It's also a challenging assembly. Because it's small, the parts are fragile (even printing parts in petg as suggested). There's a makerworld version by the same designer, which i'd prefer to use:
Simply because it's already in the ecosystem of my printer and the designer has provided files with the settings they believe will work best, so there's less experimentation.

I am happy to print this, but I'd like to make these suggestions: Print 25% bigger. That will make the pieces stronger with less likelihood of failure when printing. Do not print anything in silk (shiny) material, as it's weaker and more likely to break. And let me send you the version the designer has provided on runners:
View attachment 49736
Again, more likely to successfully print, and less likely parts would get lost in the mail. You'd cut them off with some side cutters at assembly time. I can print them in PETG (for strength) and I have the following colors available in that material: Black, Red, Purple, Pink

At those sizes, I'd have to charge $15/per figure ($10 at the original size), with the caveat and disclaimer that all assembly is your responsibility, and that I won't replace any broken parts for free.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'll think about it!
 
Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

friend of mine moved into a rental house. There was a place for a hand towel ring, but no ring in it.

Have calipers, will travel...

1729693125829.png


(Made in the size requested)
 
Tinwhistler

Tinwhistler

My Revo Panda fast-change high-flow nozzles arrived today. Took me the standard several minutes to swap out the hot end body for the Biqu bambu clone that accepts the revo. But once that was done, it took me all of about 10 seconds to swap nozzles from the .4 default to a .6.

Running a max flow calibration.
1730775466960.png


For those unfamiliar with this test, it tests the max flow rate your filament and nozzle can do. Every mm in height, it increases the flow rate of filament out of the nozzle. When you start seeing defects, you measure the height where they start, and that's a good max flow rate.

More flow means faster printing, basically.

Bambu presets for generic filaments is 12mm3/s.
1730775446353.png


I started this test at 15. I haven't measured yet, but it looks like the defects started at about 30 mm3/s. Sweet.

edit: Just measured. 31mm3/s for the 0.60mm high flow hot end.
 

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